Underwear was first called "obscenity" in ancient China. Under the restriction of traditional ethics and the closed concept of human dress, we can only see it. Ancient underwear is a vague, hidden, shy and restrained expression of beauty, emotion and body, showing elegance and romance.
Let's show you in chronological order.
As early as the pre-Qin period, due to the development of China's planting industry and the large-scale planting of textile fibers, the clothing shape developed rapidly. Among them, the long history of sericulture and silk weaving is more multi-layered, which provides favorable conditions for the development of complex structure clothing. At least 5,000 years ago, women's wear in China had the structure of "skirt under top" and the changes of internal and external levels.
Western Zhou Dynasty: Abuse of Clothes
"Yin" means "frivolous and not solemn", which shows the negative mentality of the ancients towards underwear. The blouse worn by women, that is, the upper pocket in the belly pocket, is named after its practicality, and its shape is like today's undershirt.
Qin and Han Dynasties: Holding the belly
There were many styles of underwear in the Han Dynasty, and people's pursuit of clothing began to become exquisite. At this time, women's underwear is more common.
A little more complicated, it is to put a belt on the belly of the handkerchief and hold it tightly when using it, hence the name "holding the belly".
Since the cracks appeared in the cultural model with Confucianism as the core in the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, the ancient underwear culture in China began a romantic period without being bound by etiquette and customs. In the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the body was exposed through the shape and color of underwear, which showed the openness of underwear and clothing culture in the Tang Dynasty and the wonderful and brilliant light in the humanistic spirit.
Wei and Jin Dynasties: (Sixteen Kingdoms): Two Dangs
The difference between "Liangdang" and "Hugging the abdomen" and "Being convinced" is that it has a back piece, which can be used as both a chest and a back. Most of the materials are brocade with thick feel and rich colors, and double-layer cotton lining. "Liangdang" was originally the costume of nomadic people in the north, and later spread to the Central Plains, belonging to an alien culture.
Qibla in Tang Dynasty
Tang dynasty: terminalia chebula
Before the Tang Dynasty, the shoulders of underwear were decorated with belts. In the Tang Dynasty, a kind of strapless underwear called "Chebula" appeared. This is also determined by the shape and characteristics of their coats: women in the Tang Dynasty like to wear "semi-naked skirts". They tied their skirts high on their chests, and then tied a wide belt on the lower part of their chests with their shoulders. Expose the upper chest and back, cover with sheer gauze, and the underwear is looming, so the underwear fabric is exquisite and colorful, which is quite similar to the "underwear wearing outside" advocated today. In order to match this habit, underwear needs to show off the shoulders. The commonly used fabric of terminalia chebula is woven, which is quite stiff, slightly elastic and feels thick. When you wear it, just tie two straps under your chest. Yamamoto teaches "weaving" to ensure that the upper part of "terminalia chebula" will stand upright.
In the process of learning fashion design, you will inevitably encounter such problems. I don't know how to solve it. The skirt starts at 778, ends at 600 and ends at 396. You can combine them in order. There are tutorial materials to collect and study with you.
The restriction of Neo-Confucianism in the Song Dynasty did not eclipse underwear culture, but made it unique in the Central Plains, laying the foundation for the "Chinese-style chest-wrapped" culture in the future.
Song dynasty: tube top
After wearing the "tube wipe", the whole chest and abdomen are covered, so it is also called "tube wipe". Tie a knot with a button or belt. Ordinary people use cotton products, commonly known as homespun, and nobles use silk products with embroidery on them. Single clip, different forms.
Yuan dynasty: acacia lapels
The main feature of "acacia lapel" is that it is tied from back to front. Wear it from the back to the front, with a row of buttons on the chest, or use a rope. The lapels of acacia are mostly made of brocade, and the patterns are continuous in four directions.
In the underwear culture of the Ming Dynasty, the "waist-girding" underwear that "does not embroider red" further reflected the life consumption concept of "attracting luxury and prostitution" in the social fashion at that time.
Ming dynasty: dominating the waist
The "main waist" is similar in shape to a vest. The lapel has three lapels, a crotch on the shoulder, a belt on the crotch, and a tie on the waist side to tie all lapels, forming an obvious waist. It can be seen that women in Ming dynasty have mastered the method of highlighting their figure.
Qing dynasty: Chinese-style corset
In the Qing Dynasty, "tube-wiping chest", also known as "Chinese-style chest covering", was generally made into a diamond shape. There is a belt on it, worn between the neck and tied with two belts at the back of the waist. The bottom is an inverted triangle, covering the navel and reaching the lower abdomen. Most materials are cotton and silk. The strap used for binding is not limited to rope. Rich families use gold chains, middle families use silver chains and copper chains, and small jasper uses HongLing. There are all kinds of exquisite embroidery on the "belly pocket". Red is a common color in Chinese corsets. Qin and Han Dynasties: Holding the belly
There were many styles of underwear in the Han Dynasty, and people's pursuit of clothing began to become exquisite. At this time, women's underwear is more common.
A little more complicated, it is to put a belt on the belly of the handkerchief and hold it tightly when using it, hence the name "holding the belly".
Since the cracks appeared in the cultural model with Confucianism as the core in the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, the ancient underwear culture in China began a romantic period without being bound by etiquette and customs. In the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the body was exposed through the shape and color of underwear, which showed the openness of underwear and clothing culture in the Tang Dynasty and the wonderful and brilliant light in the humanistic spirit.