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Ancient Chinese clothing refers to all kinds of clothes, hats, shoes and socks in ancient China, which are unique in the world, and their structures and styles are gradually changing with the development of production and lifestyle. Through the study of ancient costumes, we can know the styles of ancient people. Clothing is also an important means of dating when identifying related cultural relics. There are not many ancient costumes in the world. In addition to physical objects, figures in ancient sculptures and paintings are often important reference materials.

the Stone Age

In the late Paleolithic period, people already knew how to sew clothes, and bone needles were also unearthed in the cultural remains of the Neanderthals in Zhoukoudian. By the end of the Neolithic Age, people of different regions and nationalities had different clothing styles. Take the hairstyle as an example. Dadiwan culture has a short ponytail, Majiayao culture has an inverted braid, Dawenkou culture has a hair band made of pig teeth, and Longshan culture has bone hair. A jade man's head unearthed from the Shenmu Shige site in Longshan culture, Shaanxi Province, has a bun on the top of his head, which may be the reflection of his hair. Bones have been unearthed in Erlitou-type and Dongxiafeng-type sites equivalent to Erlitou culture in Xia Dynasty, and their shapes are the same as those of similar artifacts in Shang Dynasty. Therefore, knowing that hair is tied in a bun has always been a major feature of ancient Chinese costumes.

Xia Shang and Western Zhou Dynasty

The clothes of Xia, Shang and Western Zhou Dynasties didn't really exist. According to the jade articles and stone statues unearthed from the tomb of Houjiazhuang and the tomb of the rich in Anyang, it can be known that the nobles in Shang Dynasty wore collar clothes, a gentry belt at their waist, a petticoat under them, and a city (knee-covering) in front of their abdomen. There are few figures left over from the Western Zhou Dynasty. Judging from the jade and bronze humanoid car unearthed in Luoyang, clothes, dresses, belts and markets are still the basic components of aristocratic men's wear. Its clothes are positive color and middle color, pay special attention to the market in front of the clothes. According to the bronze inscriptions in the Western Zhou Dynasty, Zhou Wang often gave clothes at the registration ceremony, such as "Zhu Shi, scallion yellow" (Mao), "Shi, Huang" (Xun Gui) and so on. In ancient literature, Cheng and Huang refer to "balance", which refers to knee covering, and "balance" refers to a whole set of accessories including jade binding group and jade pieces. The figurines unearthed from Changtaiguan in Xinyang, Henan Province and Jin 'an in Jiangling, Hubei Province belong to Yu Pei in front of their bellies. On the other hand, under the rule of Yu Pei, nobles were highlighted with special colors, thus becoming a symbol representing their status.

With the establishment of the Western Zhou Dynasty, the social productive forces have greatly developed and improved, the material is obviously rich, and the social order has been organized and established. Due to the existence of hierarchy and the need of etiquette, the form of clothing has been further standardized, and it has been included in the category of "ruling the country by courtesy", which is different in terms of honor and inferiority.

At this time, the special boundary grade marks of clothing began to be clear, and the variety categories also increased accordingly, such as the special sacrificial dress in the palace when offering sacrifices to the gods and ghosts of heaven and earth, the court dress in the court ceremony, the military service dress, the wedding dress, the mourning dress and so on. Although the clothes are still yellow, a big belt (made of silk or silk with a width of four inches) and jade (made of jade with a ribbon around the waist) are added to the official clothes. In addition, clothing colors are also graded. In the Western Zhou Dynasty, in addition to the unique style of taking off the long ribbon of the coat, it also absorbed the clothes with hooks at the waist of Xianbei people (now Xibo people) in the north (thin hooks or buckles made of gold, silver, copper or iron at the connection of the ribbon).

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The Qing Dynasty was a political institution dominated by Manchu rulers, and the customs and habits of Manchu banners influenced the Central Plains. Qing dynasty costumes for thousands of years

According to legend, the traditional costume system, due to the Manchu aristocrats' policies of "shaving their hair and changing clothes", "ten obedience" and "leaving their hair behind", as well as a large number of killings of Han people, caused the demise of China's traditional costumes. This slaughter-like change is another abnormal development of China's traditional costume system, and it is the third obvious mutation after "Khufu riding and shooting" and "opening Tang costume" in history.

The wide robe and big sleeves (sacrificial clothes, extraordinary clothes) that have lasted for thousands of years are chic, rich, slender and weak, which is in stark contrast to the full-loaded form with swollen whole body and short and narrow sleeves.

Manchu flag dress, rectangular outline, saddle-shaped collar to cover cheeks, no waist up and down, no shirt exposed, two or three fake sleeves on the right side, horseshoe sleeves to cover hands, inlay ornaments, clothes and clothes, a vest or coat. Today, it also has a certain influence on modern clothing. Especially with the development of the times, the cheongsam with prominent curves and exposed posture has a temporary existence value.

There are several different forms of cheongsam or shorts, such as pipa lapels, large lapels and double lapels. Matching skirts or trousers are decorated with printing, embroidery and sewing all over the floor. The front, collar and sleeves are decorated with inlays, piping and embroidery. In the early Qing Dynasty, Manchu women were similar to men in dress, the only difference was wearing ears and combing their hair, while unmarried women hung braids. Manchu women do not bind their feet or wear skirts. The vest outside is flush with the coat, and there is a small coat inside the gown, which is equivalent to a Chinese-style chest covering for Han women. The clothes outside are also called "Oolong".

Cheongsam is the dress of Qing Dynasty in China, which evolved from the robes of Manchu women. Because Manchu is called "Qiren", it is called "Qipao". In the early Qing Dynasty, Manchu women mainly wore robes, while Han women still wore clothes and dresses. In the middle of Qing dynasty, Manchu and Han followed suit; Manchu imitated Han nationality in the late Qing Dynasty. Cheongsam was improved by the Han people and gradually became popular among women. This kind of cheongsam was introduced to thousands of households by Han women through continuous improvement after absorbing western clothing styles. There are many styles of cheongsam, such as wishful placket, pipa placket, inclined placket and double placket. There are high collar, low collar and no collar; The cuffs have long sleeves, short sleeves and sleeveless sleeves; There are high slits and low slits in the slits; There are also long cheongsam, short cheongsam, double cheongsam and single cheongsam. In 1930s, the improved cheongsam almost became the standard dress for women in China.

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