Due to the influence of other cultures on Japanese culture, the history of Japanese clothing development can be divided into the following three main stages:

A) Great influence of China culture (Asuka, Nara)

B) Japanese local style

Heian period kamakura era. Muromachi (Zheng Zhi), Taoyamamachi (Taoyamamachi) and Edo (Edo).

C) adapt to western culture

(Meiji, Taisho, Showa, Heisei) It was in Heian period that Japanese native culture began to flourish. During the Edo period, Japanese culture entered its heyday.

My Yayoi, Xiaofang, Asuka, Nara period (to 794 AD).

Silkworm rearing technology and textile technology began to rise in the yayoi period (about 500 BC to about 300 BC). The mission sent to China during the Asuka period (552-646) brought Buddhism, Confucianism and many other things to Japan.

Sui and Tang culture. For example, Nara, established in 7 10, was built in strict accordance with the model of Chang 'an, China at that time. At that time, the organizational structure of Japanese government and the dress code of nobles and court officials also followed China's.

Style.

2. Heian period (794- 1 185)

In 794, the palace moved from northern Nara to Pingan Jing (now Tokyo). In the early period of Heian (794-897), the Japanese kept in touch with the Tang Dynasty in China. After 894, contact with China stopped. The period from 897 to 1 185 is called the post-heian period or post-Fujiwara era. At that time, Japan tried to develop its own artistic style, and the development of fabric design forms and clothing styles at all levels of society clearly proved the changes at that time. On many formal occasions, the court women in Heian period wore multi-layered clothes, and they carefully matched the colors of each layer, which can be seen from the neckline, cuffs and hem of the clothes. The most important layer is Utiki, a kind of lined robe called Kasane-irome or Kasane. Each layer is longer than the outer layer, thus revealing the edge of each color and producing attractive effects.

Three. Kamakura era (1185-1333), Muromachi era (Zheng Zhi) and Taoshan era (1333- 1600).

With the establishment of Kamakura government representing the samurai class and the decline of royal privileges, tough military uniforms replaced luxurious silk. During the Muromachi period, women began to wear Kosode (underwear representing aristocratic status in peacetime) instead of wearing kimonos with many decorations. Kosodo is gradually accepted as a standard dress by women from all walks of life. During the Muromachi period, there was no drama. Highly exquisite costumes have become a precious cultural heritage in Japan.

Four. Edo period (1600- 1868)

Edo period (1603- 1868) was a long, peaceful and stable period. Due to the isolation policy of the Tokugawa government, Japan was almost completely unaffected by external influences during this period. The official costume of a samurai is Kamishimo. Prostitutes and prostitutes in Caballe competed to wear exquisite and colorful clothes. Because of their pursuit of clothes, the Edo period strengthened the wide acceptance of Kosode. In order not to lose the beauty of the kimono itself, the Obi (belt worn with Kosode) in the early Edo period was simple in form, and only the rope was woven into the shape of a whip.

Modern development of verb (abbreviation of verb)

During the Meiji period (1868- 19 12), many western clothing styles flooded Japan, especially long dresses and trousers. At the same time, kimono style and Obi style have been standardized. With the gradual adoption of western clothing styles in Japan, the situation of wearing kimono reached its lowest point in the first two decades after the war. At present, children, young people and women only wear kimonos on some formal occasions, such as weddings, bar mitzvahs, graduation, Sitigosan Festival and New Year's Day.

Cosod and Kasang

The prototype of modern kimono is Kosode, which means "small sleeves". To be precise, Kosode is a kind of clothing with small cuffs. The origin of Kosode can be traced back to the middle of Heian period (the tenth century), when it was the daily clothes of civilians and the underwear of nobles in the palace. Royal women in Heian period have many levels of clothing, and they will carefully match the colors of each level. Compared with Corsode, Casane's cuffs generally have larger openings.

When it comes to traditional Japanese clothing, everyone will think of all kinds of loose, slender, elegant and gorgeous Japanese kimonos. All Japanese traditional customs, such as tea ceremony, flower path, book path, sacrifice, ceramics, ancient poetry and even writing, are influenced to some extent by ancient China, and kimono is no exception.

The history of kimono is about 1 millennium. What is really recorded in writing is that the introduction of China costumes into Japan began in the Nara era. Nara era coincided with the prosperous Tang Dynasty in China, and the Japanese sent a large number of scholars and monks to study in China. These envoys brought the culture, art and laws of the Tang Dynasty back to Japan. "Yi Ling" is one of the systems formulated in the Nara era by imitating the Tang Dynasty. The "Dress Order" stipulates dresses, court clothes and uniforms. The color of clothing in Nara era is relatively simple. During the Heian period, due to the influence of the national wind at that time, the colors of clothes began to diversify and the sleeves also developed in a wide direction.

At that time, ancient women would wear a kind of clothing called "Twelve Singles" when they entered the palace or celebrated festivals. Divided into Tang suit, single coat, watch, etc. , which has 12 layers. In the Kamakura era, after the luxury of the nobles ended, in order to facilitate combat, the clothes were restored to simplicity, and the wide sleeves were changed back to narrow sleeves. The special badge of entering the Muramachi era is to print family patterns on clothes. In ancient Japan, every family had a family line divided by surname, and the design of casual clothes began to be formalized.

In the Taoshan era, people began to pay attention to wearing different clothes in different places, so there appeared "visiting clothes" worn at wedding banquets and tea parties (from left shoulder and left sleeve to lapel and skirt with a pattern) and "sleeve-retaining clothes" worn at various celebrations, adult festivals, banquets and blind dates. The edo period was the most prosperous period in the history of Japanese clothing. At that time, kimonos were close to modern times, and most of the kimonos seen today continued the special clothing style of the Edo era. In the Meiji era, the kimono in the present sense was finalized.

In Japan, people still wear beautiful kimonos to participate in tea ceremony, flower path, watch cultural performances, participate in various sacrificial ceremonies and celebrate traditional festivals, which adds a lot of atmosphere.

In Japan, there are "Girls' Day" and "Boys' Day" every year, and Japanese mothers have to dress their children in kimonos and bless them.

In Japan, during the traditional "July 53" festival, children put on new kimonos, and their parents took them to visit the shrine.

In Japan, when celebrating "Adult Day", all girls who have reached the age of 20 should dress up and put on a "vibrating sleeve" kimono for unmarried women to show their adulthood with a beaming attitude.

At weddings in Japan, the bride should wear a "white and flawless" kimono symbolizing holiness and purity. Usually, housewives and men who come back from work like to wear kimonos after bathing. This kind of kimono is called "bathrobe kimono".

Japanese painting, drama, dance, sculpture and other arts are closely related to the service industry. For example, Japanese folk print-the beauty painting in Ukiyo-e painting, can not be separated from kimono. For example, dancers in drama use long sleeves to express their feelings, and actors sometimes turn their backs on the audience, just to let the audience appreciate the beauty of the clothes in kimono.

Japanese kimono is more complicated and exquisite in wearing. Take women for example. When wearing kimono, the closest thing is petticoat, followed by undershirt, gown and kimono. Then tie the "thin belt" and "bag". When wearing kimono, wear cloth socks barefoot or below, and wear sandals or wooden shoes when going out. When Japanese women wear kimonos, they should wear corresponding headdresses.

The heyday of Japanese clothing history-Edo era

Almost all Japanese traditional customs, such as tea ceremony, flower path, book path, sacrifice, ceramics, brocade, ancient poetry, archaism and even writing, are influenced to some extent by ancient China, and kimono is no exception.

Look at the coarse clothes in ancient Japan. The narrow sleeves and oblique skirts are very similar to those worn in ancient China. However, it is really recorded in writing that Chinese clothes were introduced into Japan and institutionalized, which should have started from the Nara era.

Nara era coincided with the prosperous Tang Dynasty in China, and the Japanese sent a large number of scholars and monks to study in China. These envoys brought the culture, art and laws of the Tang Dynasty back to Japan. "Yi Ling" is one of the systems formulated in the Nara era by imitating the Tang Dynasty. The Dress Order stipulates that dresses, court clothes and uniforms, including crowns and hats, are divided according to the rank of official positions. Uniforms are the clothes of civil servants without official positions, which are classified by industry. The color of clothing in Nara era is relatively simple.

During the Heian period (after the ninth century), due to the influence of the national wind at that time, the colors of clothes began to diversify and the sleeves also developed in a wide direction. In the Kamakura era, the Yuan Dynasty unified China. I'm afraid it was influenced by the Yuan Dynasty. The Yuan Dynasty invaded Japan ten times in a row. In order to facilitate the battle, the clothes returned to simplicity, and the wide sleeves changed back to narrow sleeves.

Printing family patterns on clothes, every family in ancient Japan had family patterns according to their surnames. It is estimated that there are more than 20 thousand family lines (this website will introduce family lines later), and the design of casual wear has begun to be formalized, which is a feature of entering the muromachi era. During the Taoshan period (1mid-6th century), people began to pay attention to wearing different clothes in different places, so there appeared "clothes visiting" for wedding banquets and tea parties and "sleeveless clothes" for various celebrations, adult festivals, banquets and blind dates.

The edo period was the most prosperous period in the history of Japanese clothing, and most of the kimonos seen today continued the special clothing style of the edo period.