Cotton elastic denim fabric is more breathable and tight, because cotton itself is compact. Adding spandex makes up for the hardness of cotton, making the fabric elastic and comfortable to wear.
From the practical point of view, a good denim fabric should not only achieve high-grade appearance, comfortable wearing and long service life, but also have good moisture absorption, perspiration and wrinkle resistance, as well as a more beautiful and tasteful style after washing.
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Since the end of 1970s, denim has been greatly developed in China for many times, and has become an important producer of denim internationally. A large number of advanced denim and denim garment enterprises have basically reached international standards in quality and variety, which has initially reversed the concept that China denim products belong to "low-grade products" in the international market.
Although the development and production of cowboy products in China started late, it started at a high level, with advanced equipment such as air spinning, automatic winding, warp dyeing, shuttleless loom (rapier, gripper and air jet) and heavy-duty pre-shrinking finishing machine, which created good conditions for the development of cowboy varieties and the improvement of quality level.
However, for a long time, some equipment with excellent performance and complete functions, such as electronic multi-arm, multi-color, uneven winding, rapid variety change and unmanned operation, have not attracted enough attention, resulting in a waste of functions. In order to better serve variety development and improve quality and labor productivity, this situation needs to be solved urgently.
1, bamboo joint
When slub yarns with different yarn numbers, different slub thicknesses (compared with the base yarn), different slub lengths and pitches are designed, and slub yarns are arranged in single warp direction or single weft direction and warp and weft direction, and are properly arranged with ordinary yarns with the same number or different number, various slub denim can be produced, and various hazy or clear striped jeans can be formed after washing, which is welcomed by consumers with personalized needs.
In the early days, almost all slub cowboys used ring spinning slub yarn. Because it can be spun into slub yarn with short length, small pitch and relatively high density, it is easy to form dense embellishment effect on the cloth surface, mainly in the warp direction. With the development of market consumption demand, especially weft-elastic two-way slub denim products are very popular in domestic and foreign markets.
However, as long as the weave structure of some varieties is well designed, a single variety of ring-spun yarn can be used in the warp direction and a proper proportion of slub yarn in the weft direction, and the effect of warp and weft two-way slub cowboy can also be achieved.
2. Ring spinning yarn
With the development and application of new technologies and equipment such as ring spinning with high speed, large package, fine winding and no knot, the shortcomings of short spinning length, low production efficiency and many knots have been solved.
The situation that denim yarn is replaced by air-spun yarn is changing rapidly, and ring spun yarn is likely to make a comeback.
Because ring spinning denim is superior to air spinning denim in some properties, such as hand feeling, drape, tear strength and so on. Moreover, it is also influenced by people's psychological return to nature and the pursuit of the original development of cowboy style. More importantly, the surface of ring spinning jeans will show a hazy slub style after grinding and washing, which meets the individual needs of today's jeans.
Ring spinning slubs can be spun into shorter and denser slubs, which also promotes the development momentum of ring spinning denim.
3. Color matching
In order to increase the color and tone changes of indigo denim varieties. For example, indigo dye black sulfide, indigo dye grass green sulfide, black green sulfide, blue sulfide and so on. To meet the individual needs of the market.
At the same time, denim production enterprises have their own patented new denim varieties to improve market competitiveness. In this regard, attention should be paid to controlling the concentration of mother liquor as much as possible to prevent excessive overflow of dye liquor from causing dye waste and expanding environmental pollution.
Step 4: Special colors
Because the clothes made of super indigo dyed denim or super indigo dyed denim can get rich and bright colors after sanding and washing, they are widely welcomed by consumers.
"Super indigo" dyed denim has two characteristics: extremely deep dyeing depth and excellent color fastness to rubbing and washing.
The former means that the amount of indigo dye dyed on yarn per unit weight (generally expressed as% of yarn dry weight and% of dyeing depth) is very large. For example, the dyeing depth of conventional denim warp is 1% ~ 3%, while the dyeing depth of "super indigo" needs to reach more than 4% to be called super indigo or super deep indigo.
The latter means that "super indigo" dyed jeans need to be washed repeatedly for more than 3 hours, and their color depth can still reach or exceed that of conventional dyed jeans without washing, and their color light is much brighter than that of conventional dyed jeans.
For indigo dyed denim, its essence depends on the penetration degree of the dye into the yarn, not the abrasion fastness of the dye itself (the wet abrasion fastness of indigo is only 1), that is, the better the penetration degree, the better the abrasion fastness.
In the past, the so-called "indigo dyeing rapid washing process" actually made indigo dye penetrate into the core of the fiber very shallowly during the yarn dyeing process, so that when denim clothing was ground and washed, a thin layer of dye on the yarn surface was removed, exposing more white yarn cores, which made the color fade quickly, thus achieving the effect of fading immediately after short-time grinding and washing.
On the contrary, the dyeing process of "Super Indigo" requires that the dye can penetrate into the core well, so that the denim clothes can get deep and bright color after grinding and washing.
Because the dyeing depth of "super indigo" dyed denim products is more than 60% higher than that of conventional denim dyeing, the indigo concentration of the dyeing solution will also double, even reaching 3 ~ 4g/L, and it is possible to obtain a deeper color.
In this way, the viscosity of dye solution increases, the fluidity becomes worse, the permeability of dye leuco is affected, and the color fastness of denim decreases, which can not meet the demand of final depth in clothing production.
Therefore, some enterprises adopt the design of increasing the dyeing depth again, so that the indigo concentration in the dyeing solution increases again, and the permeability becomes worse, forming a vicious circle, and still can not meet the requirements of "super indigo" color. The higher the concentration of indigo in dye solution, the heavier the red light and the darker the color, and there is no "super indigo" effect.
This problem is solved by increasing the number of dyeing channels. For example, if the number of dyeing passes is increased to 8 or even 10, it will not only increase the investment cost and the consumption of dyeing materials, but also increase the difficulty of operation and increase the pollution to the environment.
A better way to solve this contradiction is to appropriately reduce the dosage of sodium hydrosulfite or caustic soda, especially to control the dosage of caustic soda, so that the PH value of the dye solution is stable between 1 1 ~ 12, the dye uptake is the highest, the color is stable, and at the same time, the dyeing tension of warp yarn is appropriately reduced, so as to obtain a better "super indigo" dyeing effect.
Baidu encyclopedia _ cowboy