At present, statistics show that there are more than 200 clothing design rooms in Beijing alone, and a considerable part of them are? High fashion? Studio, specializing in CBD and Zhongguancun, provides celebrities with integrated high-end customization and design services for film and television dramas. Personalized fashion designers are opening up a unique market sky in the field of fashion design.
Personalized fashion designer brands have also begun to occupy a place in the market. Last year, designer brand? Exceptions? The annual sales of a shopping mall in Beijing alone exceeded10 million yuan.
Film and television actors are the main force, and white-collar workers become the second echelon.
Popular clothes can no longer meet the needs of some special people, especially film and television actors, people with social status, white-collar workers, fashionistas and even special people, which is reflected in the increase of fashion design studios in the market.
Sun, a famous fashion designer who works in the Fashion Design Research Center of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, said that the market demand directly led to the emergence of a large number of design rooms. According to her introduction, at present, 90% of the customers of the clothing customization business in the design room of the research center are mainly actors in the film and television industry, and most of them are personal customization. Through word of mouth, more and more people, including white-collar workers, have joined in these two years, and the overall order volume has grown from dozens of sets per year in the previous two years to hundreds per year, and it is still rising.
In fact, as the design room of the research center of the Institute of Fashion Technology, because of the background of the Institute of Fashion Technology, there is no need to worry about tourists, but the quality of clothing is always the foundation of development. Guo Pei, general manager of Rose Plaza, said: The clothing customization industry mainly focuses on the quality and satisfaction of clothing, followed by the strength of personal relationships. Good clothing quality, high satisfaction, good design room and high customer return rate are the best marketing promotion; Otherwise, no matter how powerful the network is, it can only make the design room a flash in the pan. Of course, strong connections can promote the rapid development of design offices, which should not be underestimated.
Self-operated design studio requires narrow positioning.
Zhang Xia, chief designer of the basic clothing company, told reporters that in the past two years, it was generally difficult for designers to create their own styles of clothing with the help of the platform of clothing companies, but with the development of the clothing design industry, this situation is quietly changing. The current market situation is that those clothing enterprises with low brand awareness pay more attention to the opinions of designers, but give designers great room for personalized development; And those companies with mature brands often have to give up creativity because designers have to follow the consistent brand style. However, designers of enterprises with unknown brands are rarely concerned, and the improvement of designers' design level is also greatly limited by funds and influence. Therefore, if designers really want to exert their creativity and create their own style, they must find a suitable enterprise to do it, otherwise they will have to set up their own design office.
But Sun is worried: at present, the development of many clothing design rooms has deviated from the original intention, and most design rooms make clothes according to customers' requirements. She said: In reality, it is unrealistic for designers to fully reflect their wishes. Many designers with real personality have given up the idea of opening their own design room for this reason. Actually, there are many ways to compromise. For example, designers have designed clothing samples in advance and put them in display cabinets. Customers should customize according to these samples, or make some minor changes according to customers' requirements. This practice not only embodies the creativity of designers, but also plays a guiding role in the consumption of customers.
Liu Yuanfeng, vice president of Beijing Fashion Design Association, said that not every designer is suitable for opening a self-operated design studio. Setting up a design studio requires certain qualifications, such as design experience, market experience and management experience. A mature designer needs about 5 years of market sharpening, and the growth of a design studio also needs about 5 years. Therefore, although the threshold for entering this industry is not high, you can run a decent design studio with 6.5438+10,000 yuan. However, due to the long investment return period, the pressure of follow-up funds is something that everyone who wants to open a design studio should consider in advance before creating influence.
In addition, Liu Yuanfeng also pointed out: to run a design studio, we should pay attention to the entry point, that is, market positioning, such as national, for actors and celebrities, Chinese, western and so on. The finer the positioning, the more personalized the better. Only with narrow positioning can we become famous quickly and have huge profit space; On the contrary, the comprehensive design studio lacks characteristics and has no market competitiveness.
High fashion song Gao Xiao.
There is a popular saying in the clothing customization industry: you can open a store with more money and less money, mainly depending on what kind of store the designer wants to open. In fact, to put it bluntly, it is the market positioning of the design room. In this regard, Guo Pei said that at present, there are few shops in the clothing customization market that can really be called haute couture, such as Rose Plaza, and those shops with only 30,000 to 50,000 yuan can only be regarded as high-end tailor shops at best. Some design rooms have better equipment, higher design technology and higher clothing grade, but there is still a big gap compared with high-end custom design rooms or companies.
High cost is the reason why few people waded in the high-end customization market. Although the accumulated fixed assets have reached tens of millions of yuan, Guo Pei said that the company actually does not make money. She said that the construction period of high-end customized clothing is long, and the labor wages and fabric costs are high. She calculated the account for the reporter: it usually takes 5 to 10 months to customize a set of finished clothes (clothing plus clothing) in Rose Square. In order to make exquisite workmanship, Rose Square never makes a fuss about the construction period; Calculated by the industry average labor wage 1.500 yuan, the cost of light embroidery workers (calculated by two ordinary embroidery workers and five-month working hours) is about 1.5 million yuan, while the labor costs of design and printing are higher; The choice of fabric often marks the grade of ready-made clothes. People who know about trade and international markets attach great importance to the choice of fabrics. At present, Italian high-grade imported fabrics are widely used in Rose Square, and the cost of fabrics accounts for a large part of the cost of ready-made clothes in Rose Square. The average price of a set of ready-made clothes in Rose Square is about 50,000 yuan, which is basically unprofitable.
Looking at the development of international high-end clothing customization market, no matter international stars or celebrities, they can achieve the balance of high cost, high quality and high profit. For example, the customized clothing of Dior and other international brands, because of unique design, strong brand connotation and other factors, the profit of a set of customized finished clothing (including accessories) can be 10 times the cost. Dior's practice obviously has no practical significance in China at present. Guo Pei said helplessly, at present, the domestic market has high standards and great demand, but it does not have high spending capacity. If the price of ready-made clothes in Rose Square is higher, there will be fewer and fewer consumer groups, which will eventually lead to failure.
Although the song is high and few, Guo Pei thinks that in about five years, the domestic clothing customization market can catch up with the international level. At that time, reasonable profits in the high-end customization market will naturally arise. In September this year, Rose Square was invited to attend Milan Fashion Week, which, in Guo Pei's view, bodes well for the booming domestic clothing customization market. ;