Two products-red coral hat (miscellaneous red), embroidered robe with nine pythons and five claws, and golden pheasant for civil servants. Military attache makes up the lion. Eight people can carry the big green sedan chair.
Three products-sapphire blue bright glass top (bright blue), embroidered robe with nine pythons and five claws, and civil servants make up peacocks. The military attache was allowed to take eight people to carry the big green sedan chair.
Four products-lapis lazuli and blue nie glass top hat (dark blue), embroidered robe with eight pythons and five claws, and civil servants filling snow finches. The military attache is allowed to take four people in a blue sedan chair to make up for the tiger's power.
Five products-crystal white glazed ceiling (white), embroidered robe with eight pythons and five claws, and civilian service silver pheasant. The military attache is allowed to take four people to carry the blue tweed sedan chair.
Six products-dragonflies with white nie glass top (white), eight pythons with five claws embroidered robe, and civil servants weave egrets. The military attache can take four people to carry the blue sedan chair.
Seven products-plain gold hat (white), embroidered robe with five pythons and four claws, and civil servants? Military attache weaves rhinoceros.
Eight products-flowered gold hat (white), embroidered robe with five pythons and four claws, and civil servants practicing finches. Military attache fills rhinoceros
Nine products-carved gold hat (white), embroidered robe with five pythons and four claws, and civil servants practicing finches. Military attache reclamation horse
Dirty-carved gold hat (white), embroidered robe with four claws of King Python, and orioles scattered at random.
Inspectors, judges and other supervisors, as well as judicial officials, wear hats and embroidered robes according to the normal level, but the auxiliary service graphics are embroidered to show judicial justice.
In China, hundreds of civil and military officials in the Qing Dynasty wore patchwork clothes, and a screen embroidered with birds and animals was decorated in the middle of the chest and back of the clothes, which was called "patchwork clothes". It has become an artistic treasure because of the skills of silk embroidery and dyeing.
The method of distinguishing official ranks with animal patterns originated in the period of Wu Zetian in Tang Dynasty. Prior to this, official uniforms were mostly printed, and the grades were distinguished by the number of accessories and the color of clothes. Wu Zetian gave the embroidered robes decorated with animal patterns to the civil and military officials as the difference between rank and official position. This kind of creativity has changed the image of the royal dress level, which makes people see at a glance.
At the beginning of the Qing Dynasty, only military officers compiled the supplementary clothing system, and the supplementary clothing could be woven on imperial clothes, short jackets, leather jackets and mandarin jackets at will. After nine years of Shunzhi, the production of auxiliary clothes has changed, almost completely inheriting the customization of the Ming Dynasty, and only a few patterns have been deleted. Officials at all levels make up their clothes in stone blue with the same style, such as round neck, double-breasted sleeves, flat sleeves over elbows, and body length over knees. The only difference lies in the shape and pattern of the patch.
The tonic of Qing dynasty directly attacked the Ming dynasty, but it also developed and changed. The main difference between the two lies in the form first. Tonics were used in robes in the Ming Dynasty and in robes in the Qing Dynasty. Ming clothing is a group collar shirt, the front chest patch is a whole piece, while Qing clothing is a double-breasted shirt, and the front chest patch is divided into two parts. In Ming dynasty, the patchwork was either woven separately or embroidered directly on the patchwork in advance, while in Qing dynasty, it was woven separately and then sewn on the patchwork. The tonic in Ming dynasty was about 40 cm square, slightly smaller in Qing dynasty, about 30 cm square; In addition, in the Ming Dynasty, patchwork was embroidered with plain colors such as red, while in the Qing Dynasty, patchwork was embroidered with colorful colors based on dark colors such as cyan, black and crimson. In Ming dynasty, the patchwork was mostly surrounded by smooth edges, while in Qing dynasty, the patchwork was finely processed and used lace, which had decorative effect. Many civil servants in the Ming Dynasty embroidered a pair of birds, while animals in the Qing Dynasty embroidered one.
The tonic in Ming dynasty was only decorated on the chest and back, while the round tonic in Qing dynasty was not only decorated on the chest, but also on the shoulders.
Embroidered patches on official uniforms in the Qing Dynasty are a sign to identify the rank of officials. It's just that the embroidery workers are different in complexity and color. Tonics existed with official positions and were restricted by the imperial court, so they could not be mass-produced. Therefore, it has extremely high technical value and historical value. Today, it has become a precious collection of cultural relics.
The embroidery patterns of officials are different, mainly using birds as civil servants and animals as military attaché s to show the majesty of military attaché s. The official's wife, Yuan Pei, is a court maid. She can also follow her husband's rank and wear a medal on the chest and back of the official.
Complement can be divided into round complement and square complement. The round supplement is used for the royal relatives above Beizi, and there is a golden dragon pattern with five claws on it, which is decorated on the left and right shoulders, chest and back respectively. Square steps are used for civil servants, military commanders and other officials.
The patchwork patterns embroidered by civil servants are: crane for one product, golden pheasant for two products, peacock for three products, cloud smoke for four products, silver pheasant for five products, crane for six products, chicken for seven products, quail for eight products and bird for nine products.
The complementary patterns of military attache embroidery are: unicorn, lion, leopard, tiger, bear, tiger, rhinoceros, rhinoceros and seahorse.
The supplementary service system in Qing dynasty was strict, and no one could overstep it. Nian Gengyao's son wore four dragons to make up one. When he convicted Nian Gengyao, there was this item: "Not a person, it is not desirable, you must obey the ceremony."
At that time, because of their low positions, some officials privately asked embroidery workers to make them in order to improve their status. The Qing government's processing factory repeatedly banned it and made supplements higher than its official position, but there were still frauds for the benefit. The institution that makes these supplements is the Royal Weaving Yamen, which specializes in weaving silk and brocade. The royal weaving yamen has gathered skilled craftsmen from all over the world. They use all kinds of embroidered silk materials, apply and inherit exquisite weaving and embroidery techniques, and weave and embroider world-famous traditional clothes. These supplements have now become precious cultural relics and artistic treasures.
The Qing Dynasty established by the Nuzhen nationality in Northeast China was the last feudal autocratic dynasty in the history of China. The official uniforms of the Qing Dynasty highlighted the national characteristics of Manchu and completely changed the face of the official uniforms of the Han nationality that lasted for thousands of years. The Manchu characteristics of these clothes are highlighted in the crown hat, horseshoe sleeves, robes and pants.
The top hat of Qing officials is very special, which is the familiar long feather dome hat. There are two kinds: one is a warm hat worn from August to February, and the other is a cool hat worn from March to August. The warm hat is round, with a dome in the middle and a wide folding brim around it. It is made of black woolen cloth, flannel or satin. The brim is made of precious leather materials such as mink, sea dragon skin and fox skin. The top of the hat is decorated with red hat weft and the middle is filled with thimble. Ding Zhu is made of precious stones, corals, gold and silver, which is an important symbol to distinguish official products. The cool hat is a conical hat, which is made of jade grass, rattan silk and bamboo silk. Dressed in gauze, decorated with red hats and crown beads. The emperor's hat is the most luxurious, with three crowns and golden dragons embedded in it. The crown is inlaid with gold and four golden dragons. Each dragon has a pearl in its mouth. In the center of the crown is inlaid with 1 big pearl, surrounded by pearls and precious stones. Horseshoe sleeves, whose real name is "Arrow Sleeves", are protective clothes that cover the hands of soldiers when shooting arrows. Looks like a horseshoe. It is installed on the bow and arrow cuffs that Qing people often wear. It can be turned up at ordinary times and put down to cover their hands when saluting. It is a Manchu national costume that the Qing people especially valued.
Manchu robe is the most important dress, which is obviously different from Han robe. The upper body is tight and narrow, the sleeves are thin, and the lower body is split in front, back, left and right, which is also limited by grade. The royal robes have four slits, while the robes of officials and people are only allowed to have two slits at the front and back. Robes are all round neck and right collar. The emperor's robes are bright yellow and embroidered with dragon patterns. Officials and maids wear robes embroidered with python patterns.
Wearing an overcoat over a robe is a major feature of Manchu costumes. The coat is shorter than the robe, generally the inner coat, round neck, loose sleeves and even cuffs. A jacket is a very short jacket, not waist-length, with sleeves but elbows. The jacket is also often used as a court dress. The yellow jacket is the most conspicuous. Similar to the jacket, there is a vest, which is also a clothing style determined by riding and shooting life. Vest has no sleeves, mainly to keep warm. Later it gradually became a coat.
The symbol before the official position in Qing Dynasty —— Jiupin civil and military officials