The status of women in the Tang Dynasty is unprecedented in the history of China, and women's clothing like China is also a unique clothing history. In addition to feudal society, women in the Tang Dynasty were all in full bloom, and gorgeous clothes were incomparable outside. More importantly, on the historical stage of China, the song "Against Tradition" played by the strong voice of "challenging male power" still lingers.
Women's clothing in Tang Dynasty can be divided into three types: dress coat, men's clothing and Hu clothing. Naked neck and chest skirt (also known as naked clothes) are "gifts", and "the skin that can't be seen in the short term is no longer the earth". Traditional clothes that resist the regime challenge men and women with "gifts" and "unreasonable clothes for men and women". The former is the expression of the tradition of "female worship" in clothing, and its connotation is based on openly challenging male chauvinism, and the "female worship" from "edge" to "center" is reflected in clothing. Let's discuss it below.
A skirt and a skirt.
Mainly used for short coat suits and skirts, with silk thread, half arm and pedal phoenix silk shoes or shoes. In a very short coat, the collar of the coat often changes, but whether it is a round neck, a square collar, an oblique collar or a chicken heart collar, the neckline is very wide, and women's cleavage can be seen, which is a relatively rare style and way of wearing in China.
In the painting of Princess Yongtai's tomb, the coat collar of court officials is exposed on her chest, neck and plump upper half. I like to wear a wide-necked shirt and an open-necked palace. The sarcophagus of Li Tang's tomb in Shaanxi Province runs again and depicts the shape of bare breasts. Zhou Fang's "Portrait of a Lady with Flowers" is depicted on this topless dress. Esther's Tang Tombstone Coffin Prince's numerous reliefs and statues also show this kind of collar. The dry face of Dark Powder Chest Half Covered with Doubtful Snow (Beauty Rite), Ou Yangxun's Ba Er Hua, Snow on the Chest (hereinafter referred to as Yin Nan), Zhou Li's Slow Beam and Reed Half Bare Chest (Every Neighbor's Woman) and other poems all describe the image of this dress. In the Song Dynasty, this kind of clothing was called "or abnormal journey" of Mr. Daoism, which could not continue to exist and became a feudal social period that would never be sung again.
Clothing is a cultural phenomenon in the final analysis. Shuowen said. "Clothes, according to it." "White Hutong" said. No one's costume is still hidden, so Zhang Ye and Zhang Cong are invisible. "Who is Yi Jianlian, according to the same, people are hot and cold according to Bailey", "Tongdian Zhi Li", he said: "In ancient times, there were caves, clothes and hair, and there was no systematic descendant Ma Su, the prophet, who produced his clothes; Later, I called, copied the clothes, and the clothes began to be prepared. " From these classic expositions, we can see that the original function is to keep warm clothes to hide shame, but with the development of society, it has become social.
According to "The Ceremony of the Duke of Zhou", in the Western Zhou Dynasty, China's clothing system was very complete, which made China people in strict ideological bondage from ancient times to the present. "Old Tang Book" records: "The clothes made by emperors in previous dynasties, the shield of value, the simplicity and frugality of ancient times, the lack of Viagra and so on. Third, Wang, along the study, the fifth is the right moon, in the fashion car. In addition, clothes and bad fur crowned chariots are dyed in colorful colors and decorated with embroidery, insect-like objects and dragon fire shapes, so it is judged to be prosperous. " In addition to the strict hierarchy, clothing also has strict restrictions on its shape and size. In other words, China has always covered the body closely, instead of studying how the body curves and highlights health and beauty. In the choice of clothing styles with moral standards, aesthetic standards are always overwhelmed, and the requirements of etiquette are often limited in practical use.
"Deep clothes" is the concrete embodiment of this concept. In the Book of Rites, the article specially equipped with "deep clothes" mentioned for the first time that "if you can't see the skin in the short term, it is not soil." Ying Da Shu by Don Kong: "So this is the so-called man in black, and the clothes are deeper, so deep, and the clothes are deeper than those of the man in black." Both The Book of Rites Quli and The Book of Rites Inside emphasize "Qian Shang has no summer" and "no contacts". "The mulberry collected by the Palace Museum in the Warring States Period depicts a group of working women. It can be seen that even in heavy labor, they are still tightly wrapped in dark clothes, and the straight skirt and cuffs cover his hands, which shows the great influence and deep bondage of moral standards. Dark clothing has a far-reaching influence. Women's clothing in Qin and Han Dynasties is still dominated by dark clothing. Han Shu Yu Fu Zhi said that his wife went to the temple to help silkworm clothing, and the deep clothes were all ready. "In the Republic of China, our cheongsam is still a kind of deformed deep clothes. We can see the influence of Confucian culture on people here.
However, Taoism was advocated in the Tang Dynasty, and Taoism always embodied the worship of women in the process of its reproduction and formation, which constituted the core of his theory, that is, the female characteristics of the theory and their teachings that I highly admire. My article "Image Analysis of Cultural Cave" holds that "cave" is the relic of female worship and the expression of the whole society's "mothering" complex. In other words, there is a subconscious worship of women in the Tang Dynasty. Mr. Simian thinks that "I", "the book of justice, women's rights are superior to men, the future of men and your incomplete humble woman." Zheng Weili said, "I appreciate the reappearance of the ruins in the book. They absorbed the wisdom of a large number of women in China, summed up the experience of women's life skills, and integrated it into their own thoughts as a basic proposition. My system even aroused his mother. The uterus is the ultimate pursuit. " I was born in a world civilization that values boys over girls, but I stubbornly adhere to the ideological heritage of orthodox ideology and paternal civilization, which ancient goddess religion will not tolerate. He allowed the "mother of the world" to use the behavior of the protagonist in the myth of chaotic universe, thus effectively rejecting the view that male creators are male-centered cultures. The mother of the God of the universe is the original "primitive" result, not the will of man and God to "create" the result with their supreme authority. Perhaps it is the thinking woman I admire, referring to the "female" environment in the Tang Dynasty, and she is honored as "the Great Sage, a high-ranking official and a lack of Yuan Emperor".
However, in primitive society, the most important thing is survival, and two things are growth. In these two things, the most important new force of women has become the decisive force to safeguard the survival of the country. Worship has become the oldest female sexual worship, the first woman has become history, and idolatry has the largest number. Marx said. "In all people's ignorance, everything is barbaric. In the lower stage of the intermediate stage, there are also some advanced stages of barbarians. Women are not only free, but also highly respected as residents. " "At that time, there were remnants of matriarchal society that had just perished, which was almost incomprehensible to the Romans. They think that women are sacred things, prophets and the most important point. We listen to women's opinions "BR>
"The order of Zhuzi schools and chronicle categories." "Don't think that the disrespect for boudoir in the Tang Dynasty is different." Chen Yinque also pointed out in the article "The Art of the Tang Dynasty, the Clan of the Ruling Class and Its Political History of Rise and Fall": "As far as the matriarchal line, entrepreneurship and monarch in the early Tang Dynasty are concerned, as the orphan mother of Emperor Taizong, the knot of Dou Ling and the mother of the emperor's daughter are all kinds of Hu, not Han. Therefore, the female-led female hybrid system is well known to the Tang royal family. " Therefore, from the single-parent family in Huang Chao, Tang Wang, the origin of bloodline does not belong to the Han nationality, but to the northern minority-the descendant of the Li Yuan family in Xianbei, Wei Bei, and the grandfather of Hu Li Yuan in Li Yuwen, who founded the customs system, is one of the eight famous countries in the Northern Zhou Dynasty. His father was Li's general, and he saw that Li Yuan's single-parent family was also a Xianbei person. Therefore, in the Tang Dynasty, some early founding emperors naturally infiltrated into the northern grassland nationalities, and the spirit of matriarchal women worship inevitably left traces, which had the social and psychological foundation as the cornerstone of the second national policy. However, the qualified women of Emma Wu's generation "have the trend of decades, which is different from the powerful and influential emperors, so they are called" two saints ",so they are monopolized by men being superior to women, the Holy Spirit said. "
Although it is far less profound than the emperor's "opening a beautiful dress coat", the phenomenon that the descendants of Confucian gentlemen made eye-popping costumes not only appeared in the palaces and courtyards of the Tang Dynasty, but also inspired poets and painters. This is justified in history, saying that worship is closely related to the concept of women.
Female worship is the most important female reproductive worship. For example, the nude pregnant women in Hongshan Culture in the late Neolithic Age, the original painter exaggerated the female body curve, highlighted her plump breasts and buttocks, and the bulge of her abdomen, which fully showed the praise and worship of female reproductive function. The pottery figurine makers of Siba culture (2000 BC) unearthed in Huoshaogou, Gansu Province also have the image of shirtless women. The great mother paleolithic, the so-called "Venus Committee of Turandot", which is completely absent, clearly embodies the essence of femininity. Always pregnant women's bellies, like water bags, are the deified nature of primitive female fertility worshippers. They use their own desires and rich mysterious forces to contain the poor physical environment with women's bodies. God's great mother, as a whole, is a symbol of creating new life. She is not all parts of the body, but the sacred symbol center of life. Therefore, self-expression, her chest, abdomen, and even the naked body impression of God's great mother are remarkable sacred forms. Therefore, in the cultural circle of Crete, bare breasts are a sacrament to adapt to behavior. The goddess and her priestess show their breasts-breasts nourish life. Women with breasts give typical characteristics of nutrition givers. According to the tradition of the first glass in ancient Greece, only Helen's breasts were used as the model of the system.
In short, the uterus, uterus, women and breasts are all symbols of fertility, vitality, desire and praise of human beings and the earth, but they have returned to pursue the rich external peace and psychological help of agricultural peoples, but they have still fulfilled it. Xiao Bing, Cultural Interpretation of Ye Shuxian's "I", Hubei People's Publishing House, 1994.8 19. Then, the topless dress jacket worn by women in the Tang Dynasty is itself a symbol of "vision" and a performance costume of "female worship".
Attached to a typical China ideographic (private) ceremonial dress ring. However, in 1950s and 1960s, even in faraway France, there was a scene that resembled China's costume drama in Tang Dynasty-bare chest movement. This movement coincided with the women's liberation movement. This is the beginning of the era of bare breasts. If you don't do this, a woman's life will be in vain. Taking the risk bravely revealed that women knew that the bra was broken. This is an act of returning to nature, that is, women's natural nature, mother nature. This is contrary to the return to the original comfort and the natural state of civilization. In France, this bare-chested movement was compared to the popularity of topless coats and skirts in the Tang Dynasty, and it was 1300 in the later period.
Whether it is the topless coat in the Tang Dynasty or the bare-chested movement in France, women's own personality is free, which has a lot to do with ideological emancipation. Born before worshipping Tang Sheng Feng Qiang, this is a pregnant woman in the women's liberation movement with a strong color. No wonder Gao Luopei sighed and said, "But after the Song Dynasty, women's chests and necks were first covered with clothes on the upper edge, and then a tall and tight underwear neckline was covered. Until today, the high-necked women in China is still a remarkable feature. "
Free breasts are still at the conceptual level. Only these days, when women are most beautiful, comfort is more important than figure. More importantly, when bras are useless, when breasts have been lost, such as neck or sexy feet, and people like to look at other parts of their bodies, women can straighten the breasts of a free crowd. Women in the Tang Dynasty hoped that the prophet and the bull would run together. One day, women show their bodies publicly, and women with freedom and equal rights are also in history.
Skirts and coats match the naked body of the upper body, wearing semi-weapons and silk. Half-arms are short-sleeved shirts, which evolved from the costumes of the Han Dynasty. Usually waist is long, wide sleeves are straight, but elbows are long. Reading the Book of the New Tang Dynasty: "Who often worships the East Palace with short-sleeved shirts and jackets, and women's clothes are also included in the historical volume" Notes on China's Ancient and Modern Times ":"Women wear silks, which is free from the ancient system, and it is the imperial edict of Kaiyuan that 20 women and Qi Lin, royal women, love and so on. An unusual feast of the Senate serving the order, Peeves' paintings and so on. "Half arm silks are not cold or naked. They are entirely from the Tang Dynasty, that is, the embodiment of the social, cultural and psychological image of seeking novelty and beauty in clothing. Clothing from practical to beautiful is another leap.
Skirts and topless women embody the rebellious tradition in the Tang Dynasty, and the pursuit of freedom is the abandoned character of women in the Tang Dynasty. This is a hidden towel. Towel width is large, which can not only cover the face, but also protect the human body. Consistent with the Book of Rites and Women Showing the Same Cover. The Book of the Old Tang Dynasty Yu Fu Zhi said: "Those who are martial and virtuous are palace riders. According to the old system of Qi and Sui, they all hang their hats and drag their skirts to their necks, and those who gradually show off are light. ..... and then a day later, accused him of curtain hat, gradually weakened. ..... At the beginning of Kaiyuan, the drivers of the Forbidden City rode Hu Mao, dressed up, and there was no vasospasm. Uncle Shi's family, along with him, lacks curtain caps. In Russia, there is a revival of bun galloping, or doctors' clothes and boots, and the hierarchy is consistent with that outside Sri Lanka. "We can travel by horse in Cave 2 17 103 of the Welcome to the Buddha in Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes in the early Tang Dynasty to see different women without electricity. .
To sum up, the popularity of topless clothes and coats has gradually declined. Even banks never showed female consciousness in the Tang Dynasty, and they rebelled against tradition.