The cold wind blew again, and everyone began to rummage through the boxes or open various shopping apps to find a suitable winter dress. In fact, in addition to the traditional "mink" and wool coat, cotton-padded jacket (clothing, actually excluding cotton) has better warmth and is more comfortable to wear, which has become our choice to wear most of the time in winter.
Unlike fur products and wool coats, which rely on their own materials to keep warm, cotton-padded jackets keep warm through internal fillers. At first, the best filler was down. As the best material for static thermal insulation (without aerogel), down has the best thermal insulation and strong compressibility (easy to package) under the premise of the same weight, but the disadvantage is that the thermal insulation of down is greatly reduced after it is soaked by water. If the down is treated with waterproof agent, it can keep warm even if it is wet. However, down products are naturally easy to "run down", and clothing needs to be treated with anti-drilling.
Down is basically divided into duck down and goose down: goose down is a little bigger and fluffy than duck down, and goose down is basically used for down products with high fluffy degree (800/ 1000). Ducks are omnivores, so duck down contains a lot of oil and generally smells fishy, so it needs to be cleaned and deodorized before use. Goose feed is mainly plant-based, so the fat content of goose down is low, there is almost no odor, and there is no need for too much chemical treatment. So generally speaking, goose down is higher than duck down.
There is almost no difference between white down and gray down in performance, but white down can be used for light-colored clothing with strong adaptability.
Down is a mixture of feathers and down. Feather is a piece of wool, which supports down and can make down rebound quickly; And down is down flower, the essence of down. Velvet is a three-dimensional sphere, which is a flower-like structure composed of a velvet core and many radial filaments, similar to dandelion. A filament consists of thousands of tiny scales, each of which is hollow. There are many rhombic knots on each filament, and these rhombic knots are filled with stagnant air. At the same time, a lot of air will be fixed between silk and silk, and between silk and silk This is the secret that down is so warm. This leads to a key data in down products: down content.
Down content: it is the proportion of down in it, usually expressed as a percentage. Generally speaking, for example, down jackets contain more than 80% down, which means that the down content is 80% and the feather content is 20%. According to the national standard of down jacket in China, "down jacket contains no less than 50% cashmere, and the allowable deviation of cashmere content is -5%". Generally speaking, the higher the cashmere content, the better. Of course, the higher the price. Everyone needs to pay attention to this indicator when buying down jackets.
On the premise of the same down content, there is another index to distinguish down quality, that is, fluffy degree, which is an important index to measure down warmth internationally. Clothing is generally marked by the number of tents in Europe and America. The number of tents refers to the volume of cubic inches per ounce (30 grams) of down under certain conditions. For example, if one ounce of down occupies 600 cubic inches, the fluffy degree of down is 600. Generally speaking, plump and mature birds have higher villi, whereas small birds have lower villi. The higher the fluffy degree of down, it shows that under the same filling amount, down can fix a larger air layer to keep warm and insulate heat, so the better the warmth retention of down, but the relatively poor compression resistance.
Therefore, whether a down jacket keeps warm is determined by the amount of cashmere, the amount of cashmere and the number of tents. Different combinations of the three meet different needs:
Warm-keeping ability of snow line and polar regions: it has large filling amount, high cashmere content and high crown layer, and has good warm-keeping and wind-resistant ability to cope with extremely cold climate, but generally does not use down with too high crown layer because it is not "durable";
General outdoor activities (hiking, mountain climbing): low filling content, high cashmere content and high crown layers, generally used as an intermediate layer, usually with weak wind resistance and wear resistance, with good air permeability, light weight and high compressibility on the premise of meeting the thermal insulation capacity, reducing the carrying and packaging burden of long-term activities;
Daily warmth: medium and high filling quantity, low cashmere content and low tent number. Daily insulation is enough.
Does down really have such a strong heat preservation ability? Of course not: after ordinary duvets are wet by rain and sweat, or clothes are wet, their ability to keep warm will drop like a cliff. Runners in the cross-country group all have the experience of sweating and freezing to death in thin-gluten down jackets. Even if the down is waterproof, the effect is not so ideal. Moreover, down is taken from animals such as geese and ducks, so it can't be mass-produced in a short time. Therefore, in the case of bad conditions or changeable climate, we will use artificial cotton as a warm material.
At first, Uncle Sam of the US Army invited major manufacturers to bid to produce a kind of thermal insulation material similar to down, so that soldiers can not be afraid of the cold on the battlefield, but also adapt to the soldiers' wet and harsh clothing use and maintenance environment, which can be produced on a large scale with controllable cost. As a result, all kinds of artificial cotton were born.
Common brands of thermal insulation cotton are probably P cotton, T cotton and C cotton.
P cotton, also known as Primaloft cotton, is a kind of hollow cotton developed by Al-banyin international Company of the United States for the US military. Its most remarkable characteristics are the improvement of heat preservation ability and windproof performance in wet state, faster heating speed, stronger temperature locking ability and better compression performance. These characteristics make P cotton have almost the same product advantages as down, and it is more suitable for use in harsh environments. The higher the end of P cotton, the better the performance in all aspects, but the more expensive P cotton is.
Actually, it has nothing to do with cotton, just for convenience. This artificial thermal insulation material imitates the structure of down, takes coarse hollow fibers as the skeleton, and winds superfine hollow fibers on the coarse skeleton to form a tree-like structure similar to down. Let PrimaLoft be very similar to down in structure. Because the hollow fibers of PrimaLoft are extremely small and complex, this structure leads to a large number of air bubbles in the whole PrimaLoft packing, which are smaller than those in the water mass. These airbags can capture the heat emitted by the body and are naturally waterproof. Even if the whole clothes are wet, Primaloft still has a high degree of warmth, which is unimaginable for down products.
Mould L7 clothes are all rayon or rayon blended velvet products.
At present, there are seven different grades of P cotton, such as ECO, Sport and One, which are mainly used for clothing. ECO using environmentally friendly raw materials is the weakest, and P cotton is the strongest artificial thermal insulation material. Because of the unique structure of P cotton, it is not filled into clothes like down, but implanted, so there is no bulkiness. Similarly, the thickness of P cotton determines the warmth retention, which is generally marked by grams per square meter (G/M2).
Compared with down, Primaloft still has a big gap in warmth retention. Let's compare the thermal resistance per ounce (Clo/Oz):
Primaloft Eco 0.68 down (550F) 0.7
Primaloft Sport 0.79 down (625F) 0.92
Primaloft one dropped by 0.92 (800F) 1.68
Downward (above 850 degrees Fahrenheit) 2.53
It can be seen that the strongest P cotton, 650 Peng down, can barely keep warm, and there is a certain gap between compressibility and weight ratio. Like the down in the middle layer of Gao Peng, it is impossible to pack a can of coke. Although P cotton is not afraid of water, its air permeability is not as good as fleece, and it is not suitable for outdoor activities with high strength and perspiration for a long time (although such activities do not need high heat preservation).
T cotton, also known as 3M cotton and Sunshine cotton, is a kind of hollow cotton developed by 3M Company. Its main characteristics are relatively low price, early entry into the market, water repellency like P cotton, and even if the cotton body has been flooded, it can still play a certain role in keeping warm, and it is light, soft and good in keeping warm. However, the heating speed, temperature locking ability and compressibility of the new sherry are not as good as those of P cotton. C cotton, that is, Coreloft, is a kind of chemical fiber thermal insulation material mixed with long and short fibers. It is said that it has higher bulkiness and better compression resistance than before. But the specific adiabatic value data has not been given. According to the legend of enthusiastic foreign netizens, the fiber of Coreloft can't reach the superfine level of Primaloft, and the structure can't reach the level of P cotton nano-air chamber. It is not widely used in the market at present. At present, it seems that only birds prefer to use it.
In a word, high fluffy down is a Ferrari sports car, and its advantages and disadvantages are as distinct. Artificial cotton is a Toyota Highlander with reliable performance and complete functions, which can be used in the hall and kitchen.
Today's winter coats often use down and rayon materials together to learn from each other's strengths. Outdoor down jackets will use water-repellent down, and at the same time, a certain amount of artificial cotton will be mixed in the parts that are easy to get wet, which combines the excellent warmth retention of down and the excellent wear resistance of artificial cotton. When it is wet, it can keep more than 90% warm, that is, the human body sweats a lot or gets wet by rain.
To sum up: choose down for dry and cold, and use cotton-padded jacket for wet sweat.
Although the reputation of Goose is mixed now, there is no doubt about its heat preservation ability. Canada Goose was originally designed for the Canadian Border Patrol and was also prepared by the Antarctic expedition organized by the National Science Foundation of the United States. So it is warm. The filler is actually duck down, which is basically around 600 Peng, which is also the result of weighing the weight and durability. Due to the long-term activities of expeditions and patrols, clothing must be durable and insensitive to weight.
Among the three series of goose snow coat, lightweight and shell, snow coat is the most fashionable and popular series, and it is also the most suitable for wearing at ordinary times.
Bosideng polar series, in my opinion, is Bosideng's high-end market, aiming at Canadian geese products. The goods are very good, and the price is competitive enough compared with competing products. However, the design still has some meaning to please consumers. For example, there will be a thick and warm GORE-TEX down jacket. In fact, in the use environment of this down jacket, most of the precipitation is snow, which does not need too strong waterproof performance and is not professional enough.
Longya, I think it's good. There is no shortage of materials for workmanship, the design is not too exaggerated, the price is stable, and there will be no ups and downs. I think it can be regarded as the first brand of military uniforms in China.
For the weather of minus 25-35 degrees, Yu Jun is warm enough, but not suitable for complex sports.
Fast hiking and sweaty cross-country running don't need to choose pure down products. Down is better for general activities and dry environments with high storage capacity.
1000 Peng for Gearlab outdoor sports goose down jacket, the filling amount is more than100g, the total weight is more than 200g, the clothes are light and hooded, and the fabric of 10D has certain wear resistance, which is suitable for external wear in ordinary environment and the middle layer in harsh environment. But most light down jackets will still be small, and so will advanced ones.
Longya The Infiltrator down jacket adopts the combination of 750 grey goose down with 90% cashmere content and gold standard P cotton, and the ratio is about 70%: 30%. The velvet flower is supported by cotton and four layers of anti-drilling velvet material, which has the effect of splashing water and can be applied to various environments, and its durability is very guaranteed. In addition, the color matching design of the clothes itself is relatively low-key, which is also very suitable for daily wear.
Groundhog/Groundhog is a strong brand of traditional down. This bread down jacket is made of 700 pieces of water-repellent goose down, with a down content of 90%, which is a very good raw material. Some people say the domestic version is not good, but the domestic version has short sleeves. I like it.
Mont-bell is a Japanese brand. I remember it is commonly called Meishan, because it means beautiful mountain in French. In view of the spiritual design of Japanese Craftsman Week, the product performance and workmanship are comparable to those of Archaeopteryx, and the price is only half of that of birds, which is well evaluated in outdoor circles. The legendary eiderdown was manufactured by Yu Jun. Of course, the quality of products produced by the same generation of factories with different requirements, processes and raw materials is very different (Mercedes-Benz S and Mercedes-Benz A are still the same brand).
Yu Jun's outdoor goose down jacket is very good to wear on both sides.
I feel that Uniqlo's products are the top quality among fast-selling brands. I heard that many foundries will also say that Uniqlo's orders are the most demanding, and the brand's commodity sales leaders also test them from time to time, which is very different from the situation that many brands only have orders and shipments.
This Uniqlo high-performance composite hooded jacket (composite filled down) is also composite filled, but it is completely different from Longya's material. Uniqlo fills down or artificial cotton in different parts according to the requirements of warmth. This is also a good way to balance demand and improve cost performance.
EDCO EDCO is a brand I bought recently. It is an arcade style, not a pure technology stream of outdoor brands. The clothes are of good quality and are more effective when matched. The key is that the key price is beautiful in the discount season. Compared with fast-selling brands, quality and price have certain advantages, and it is not easy to bump shirts. I personally like it.
Groundhog/Groundhog 700 Peng repellent goose down, traditional project, military coat style design, thinner and longer than Parker coat.
As one of the three outdoor giants of birds, elephants and rats, KLATTERMUSEN climbs the mountain rat Kawara Tsutomu P cotton hooded version, the iconic triangular logo and the diagonal zipper design, without worrying about professional performance. The version is partial to Europe and America, suitable for thin people.
Dragon Tooth Fengshen portable Primaloft cotton-padded jacket is slightly elastic and comfortable to wear. Both the outer penetration and the middle layer are competent, and the packaging and storage performance is good. Appearance, the use of black, gray, wolf brown color, with tough tailoring, highlighting the "heroic" manly temperament.
In recent years, I feel that the outdoor things of Kaileshi are getting better and better, and the design has made great progress. This NASA-themed primaloft cotton-padded jacket is worn on both sides, which is very suitable for everyday wear.
The classic archaeopteryx ATOM AR hooded cotton-padded jacket, made of C cotton, has accumulated a good reputation for many years. Atom: it is the classic cotton-padded jacket series of Archaeopteryx; AR: The official description is all-terrain, which means better protection in the series, while taking into account other aspects, such as weight and comfort; Outdoor wear has no disadvantages except price. ...
I have a little memory and understanding in my mind, so I don't know if it will help you. Personal ability is limited, it is difficult to cover everything, please correct me in the comments. Thank you!
Note: The above information comes from network collection, intrusion and deletion.