The Qing Dynasty was a political institution dominated by Manchu rulers, and the customs and habits of Manchu banners influenced the Central Plains. Qing dynasty costumes for thousands of years
According to legend, the traditional costume system, due to the Manchu aristocrats' policies of "shaving their hair and changing clothes", "ten obedience" and "leaving their hair behind", as well as a large number of killings of Han people, caused the demise of China's traditional costumes. This slaughter-like change is another abnormal development of China's traditional costume system, and it is the third obvious mutation after "Khufu riding and shooting" and "opening Tang costume" in history. The wide robe and big sleeves (sacrificial clothes, extraordinary clothes) that have lasted for thousands of years are chic, rich, slender and weak, which is in stark contrast to the full-loaded form with swollen whole body and short and narrow sleeves. Manchu flag dress, rectangular outline, saddle-shaped collar to cover cheeks, no waist up and down, no shirt exposed, two or three fake sleeves on the right side, horseshoe sleeves to cover hands, inlay ornaments, clothes and clothes, a vest or coat. Today, it also has a certain influence on modern clothing. Especially with the development of the times, the cheongsam with prominent curves and exposed posture has a temporary existence value. There are several different forms of cheongsam or shorts, such as pipa lapels, large lapels and double lapels. Matching skirts or trousers are decorated with printing, embroidery and sewing all over the floor. The front, collar and sleeves are decorated with inlays, piping and embroidery. In the early Qing Dynasty, Manchu women were similar to men in dress, the only difference was wearing ears and combing their hair, while unmarried women hung braids. Manchu women do not bind their feet or wear skirts. The vest outside is flush with the coat, and there is a small coat inside the gown, which is equivalent to a Chinese-style chest covering for Han women. The clothes outside are also called "Oolong". The clothing of Han women in Ming and Qing dynasties has not changed much, and they still wear shirts and skirts. In the late Qing Dynasty, pants replaced skirts. After the mid-Qing Dynasty, women's dresses were edged layer by layer, which was called "rolling inlay". Manchu women in Qing Dynasty wore flag dresses. They wear cheongsam, without feet or skirts, and sometimes they wear vests. After Qianlong, high-top "flowerpot bottom" shoes appeared in Manchu women's clothing. After Xianfeng, high hairstyles such as "two ends" and "big wings" appeared, which became the prominent feature of Manchu women's wear. Cheongsam, mandarin jacket and cheongsam are typical costumes of Manchu men and women in Qing Dynasty. chi-pao
A jacket is a short coat worn over a robe. The length of the jacket is umbilical, and the sleeves only cover the elbows, mainly for the convenience of riding, so it is called "jacket". Different from the mandarin jacket of Han nationality in Song and Ming Dynasties, the mandarin jacket of Manchu Dynasty was untidy. When the Manchu people first entered the customs, they forced the Han people to put on their mandarin jackets through slaughter. During the reign of Kangxi and Yongzheng, due to the enslavement policy, it began to be popular in the society, and developed into single clothes, double clothes, gauze clothes, leather clothes, cotton-padded clothes, etc., and became men's plain clothes, which ordinary people could also wear. There are three styles: pipa lapel, large lapel and double lapel. Pipa armour is also called short armour because of its lack of right armour. You can move freely when you wear it, and it is often used for luggage. A mandarin jacket with a big skirt, with the skirt spread out on the right side and different colors around it as the edge, is generally used as a uniform. Duijianzi, its clothing color has changed in different periods: at first it was cyan, at the middle of Qianlong period it was rose purple, and then it was crimson (called "Fucai"). During the Jiaqing period, clay gold and light gray were popular. Long-sleeved coats can be used as dresses instead of coats, and the color is mostly cyan. Officials of all sizes often wear this kind of clothes when paying customers. Because of its narrow sleeves, it is also called "long-sleeved coat". There is one color that cannot be used casually, and that is yellow. This yellow jacket is a special gift from the emperor. There are three main types of people who wear this kind of clothes: one is the bodyguard who "patrols" with the emperor, which is called "jacket on duty"; Second, when shooting around the wire, those who hit the target or get more prey are called "walking around the jacket"; Third, those who have made meritorious deeds in politics or war are called "martial arts jackets", and these people will go down in history. Only this royal jacket can be worn at any time China robe
Cheongsam is the dress of women in Qing Dynasty, which evolved from the robes of Manchu women. Because Manchu is called "Qiren", it is called "Qipao". In the early Qing Dynasty, Manchu women mainly wore robes, while Han women still wore clothes and dresses. In the middle of Qing dynasty, Manchu and Han followed suit; Manchu imitated Han nationality in the late Qing Dynasty. Cheongsam was improved by the Han people and gradually became popular among women. This kind of cheongsam was introduced to thousands of households by Han women through continuous improvement after absorbing western clothing styles. There are many styles of cheongsam, such as wishful placket, pipa placket, inclined placket and double placket. There are high collar, low collar and no collar; The cuffs have long sleeves, short sleeves and sleeveless sleeves; There are high slits and low slits in the slits; There are also long cheongsam, short cheongsam, double cheongsam and single cheongsam. In 1930s, the improved cheongsam almost became the standard dress for women in China.
tomorrow
The loyalty of civil and military official uniforms is Beijing official uniforms.
At the beginning of the Ming Dynasty, it was required to restore the Tang system (as shown on the left).
The style of its robes is similar to that of the Tang Dynasty, except that the Jinxian crown was changed to Liang crown, and the Zhongjing crown was added. In the Ming dynasty, official uniforms also used hats and round neck robes, but at this time the hats were painted with black paint, and the feet of the hats were short and wide, so they were called black hats. Civilians without official positions were not allowed to wear them. In addition to coloring according to the grade regulations, the public service also patches the chest and back. Civil servants decorate birds, and officers decorate animals. In recognition of the meritorious service of officials, embroidered robes, flying fish clothes, bullfighting clothes and other costumes were specially presented. Python is a dragon with four claws, flying fish is a python with fins, and bullfighting is to add curved horns to the python's head. Jade belt is for official use, so it's best to use it. Therefore, "embroidered robe and jade belt" became the most prominent costume of the big bureaucrats at this time. The image of Hanfu in Ming Dynasty is far away, as far away as North Korea, Japan, Ryukyu and other vassal countries in Northeast Asia. Hanfu is a traditional costume of the Han nationality in China, which began in Xuanyuan Huangdi and ended in the Qing Dynasty Massacre. All 56 ethnic groups are equal, and the Han people always have their own national costumes, which are Hanfu.
the Yuan Dynasty
The Yuan Dynasty was an era of ethnic integration in China's history, and costumes also fully reflected this feature. Genghis Khan, the ancestor of the Yuan Dynasty, founded the capital from 1206, wearing the costumes of the Yuan Dynasty.
After the demise of Xixia and Jin Dynasty, the ethnic composition was mainly Mongolian. In the Yuan Dynasty, the textile industry and handicraft industry were greatly damaged due to the sharp ethnic contradictions. The court dress system has long been extended to the Song Dynasty. It was not until Yuan Yingzong l32 1 that the ancient system was referred to and the system of "quality positive clothing" was formulated, which was called "monochrome clothing" or "quality positive clothing" by the Han people. This is a clothing system that inherits the Han nationality and has Mongolian characteristics. "High-quality sun clothes" are widely used. Ministers can wear them at banquets in the palace, and musicians and guards can also wear them. The difference between the upper and lower layers of this kind of clothing is reflected in the difference in texture and thickness. The son of heaven has fifteen grades. The raw materials and colors used in each grade are completely unified, and the clothes and hats are consistent, and the overall effect is excellent. For example, if the clothes are cut into velvet, their hats must be warm hats; If the clothes are white leather, the hat must be a platinum warm hat. There are fifteen grades of summer clothes in Tian Zi, which are similar to winter clothes. There are nine grades in winter clothes and fourteen grades in summer clothes, which are also distinguished by texture and color. "Side by side" and "armor to armor" are also uniforms. "Bijian" is a kind of leather coat with inside and outside, which is slightly longer than the coat. In the Yuan Dynasty, Mongolians called it "the answer of ignorance". Gaby is a kind of clothing that is easy to ride and shoot. Collarless and sleeveless, short in front and long in back, with snap connection. In the Yuan Dynasty, the official dress of men followed the custom of Han nationality, and it was also the custom of women to wear a short-sleeved shirt outside the official dress (called a half-arm skirt). Women's wear in Yuan Dynasty was divided into two styles: noble and civilian. Most of the nobles are Mongolians, wearing fur coats and hats as national costumes. Mink and sheepskin are widely used in clothing, with wide robes, narrow cuffs and wide sleeves. Because the clothes are long and mop the floor, your wife must be led by a slave when she goes out to play. This robe has a cloud shoulder, the so-called "gold embroidered cloud shoulder jade tassel", which is very gorgeous. As a gown, the fabric texture is very elegant, using big red brocade, velvet and very long felt fabric. The most popular colors at that time were red, yellow, green, brown, rose, purple and gold. It was quite popular for civilian women to wear half-arm Han skirts in Yuan Dynasty. The appearance of Hanfu often appeared on the dancers in the palace, and the narrow sleeves and hats of the Tang Dynasty were also preserved. In addition, influenced by neighboring North Korea, aristocratic empresses in Beijing also have the custom of imitating Korean women's clothing.
Only found a few, not very detailed, I hope to adopt, thank you.