The process of making clothes
Stereo cutting (1) prototype is the most basic and simple pattern, which is the basis of all styles. Stereo cutting prototype is the basis of human body stereo cutting. The operation steps are as follows: 1 Cover the determined front center line, bust line and baseline cloth on the platform, which are consistent with the lines with the same name on the platform, and fix them on the platform at the front center and point B with pins. P ... 2. Push the excess amount below the bust line to form waist saving amount and fix it with pins, and at the same time determine the position of the side seam and fix it. 3 Push the allowance above the bust line to the shoulder, cut the neckline to eliminate the drag at the neckline, and make some shadow lines on the fabric according to the basic lines of the neckline, shoulder and armhole. The operation method of the rear membrane is the same as that of the front membrane. (2) Design of prototype width and volume: There are two main methods: 1 push method: before operation, a certain amount of looseness is pushed out at the chest width and temporarily fixed with a pin. Placement method: after the three-dimensional cutting is completed, directly add slack to the side seam. 3. Volume correction: It is difficult to ensure the accuracy of the cutting part because of the large technical difficulty angle of three-dimensional cutting. Therefore, the clothes with symmetrical left and right sides often only make the right body, and the left body is cut according to the right body, so the body shape correction is essential; (1) Remove the cloth sample from the platform, put it on the platform and iron it with an iron; (2) redraw the collar socket, armhole arc, side seam, shoulder seam, etc. Use a proofing ruler; (3) Check whether the relevant parts are reasonable, and cut the left body according to the right body; (4) Connect the left and right clothes bodies with hand needles and fix them on the platform again. All relevant parts, such as pockets and buttons, are cut according to the actual samples and put into the corresponding parts to check whether the overall shape of the clothing is perfect. In the three-dimensional cutting of the prototype, we can see that the form of clothing presents two basic States: loose and fit. Loose performance is that the fabric is isolated from the human body, forming a certain space; Fit is the fit between fabric and human body, showing a fit state, and the key to this fit state lies in economic use. The concept and significance of 1 province is a way to deal with the remaining parts in clothing production. Saving comes from putting two-dimensional cloth on three-dimensional human body. Due to the ups and downs of the human body, the decreasing proportion of girth, the size of looseness and the low fit, fabrics are in a loose state in many parts of the human body. Centralized treatment of these loose quantities has formed the concept of saving, which makes the clothing modeling break away from the traditional plane modeling. The transfer of two provinces and their application provinces is the expansion of the application of provincial technology, which makes the design of body-shaping clothes diversified. In fact, the principle of saving transfer in three-dimensional cutting follows the principle of convex point ray, that is, saving transfer centered on convex points, such as the design around the chest high point, can lead to countless provinces, except the most basic chest and waist provinces, shoulder provinces, armhole provinces, neckline provinces, front middle provinces, underarm provinces and so on. They are all forms of treatment to save the excess and deficiency around the protruding point, that is, around the chest high point. In addition, there are shoulder, hip, waist and elbow provinces. Can follow the above principles, combined with the design of dart transfer. Several three-dimensional clipping operations of provincial shape (1) save waist-this is the most basic form of provincial shape, and all the excess parts are transferred below the bust point. (2) Shoulder province+front center province-this is to divide the total allowance into two parts and transfer them to the design position respectively, which is the same concept as the decomposition and transfer of the province in the plane structure. (3) herringbone province-the province is herringbone, hence the name. Different from the symmetrical characteristics of the above provinces, the herringbone province is asymmetric and has the characteristics of mother-child province. Such provinces also include Y type and T type. Four-dimensional cutting is another cutting technology after rescue. When both provinces point to the high point of the chest, we can connect the two provinces to form a dividing line, which is the structural form of connecting the provinces into seams in the plane structure. The application of segmentation technique adds another expression method to the structural design of fit clothing, and also enriches the language of clothing design. (1) Vertical dividing line —— The shoulder provinces and the chest and waist provinces are combined to form a vertical dividing line, such as the classic princess line. In addition, the neckline and waist provinces, armhole provinces and waist provinces are vertically divided. (2) Horizontal division-it is mainly manifested as a horizontal or nearly horizontal division line, such as the armhole province is connected with the former central province to form a horizontal division, the scapular province is transferred to the armhole, and the two provinces are connected to form a horizontal division of the back piece. (3) Oblique division-a form of horizontal division and vertical division, and it is asymmetrical division. For example, the shoulder dart of the right garment body and the side seam dart of the left garment body are connected to form an oblique division line running through the garment body. (4) Straight line segmentation and curve segmentation —— In the design of clothing knot segmentation, the lines formed are mainly in two basic forms: straight line segmentation and curve segmentation, and the rest are variations on this basis. Straight line segmentation is the basic form of segmentation, and curve segmentation enriches the design of segmentation, but it should be noted that the greater the curvature, the greater the technical difficulty. (5) Operation requirements-No matter which method or form, its operation method is the same. Firstly, the segmentation position is determined on the platform, and marked with the representation line, and then the segmentation is completed according to the operation methods and steps of the three-dimensional cutting prototype. The pleating art in three-dimensional cutting is a design language widely used in fashion design, which makes the clothing look more connotative and lively, especially in women's clothing design. Pleats are divided into regular pleats and free pleats.