Hairstyles and crowns can not only increase the beauty of women's appearance, but also reflect their age and identity. There are more than 100 kinds of steamed buns recorded in Jipin. Although there are many names of steamed buns, they are basically named according to the shape and decoration of steamed buns. For example, steamed buns shaped like snails are called snails, and steamed buns decorated with phoenix are called phoenix steamed buns. In ancient times, women's hair styles were basically changed according to comb, pin, knot, plate, stack and sideburns, and then decorated with various jewelry such as hairpin, hairpin, step shake and beading. Therefore, the study of female hairstyle is mainly to explore its carding form and law. According to ancient works and records, it can be divided into six categories: knot type, twist type, disc type, knot type, trans type and double hanging type.

First, the knot type.

Tie-comb weaving method, first tie the hair at the top, then tie it with silk rope, bend it into a tie, support it on a post, hold it high above the head or on both sides, and have a towering appearance, and then decorate it with various gold ornaments, which are noble and gorgeous, and are mostly used for goddesses, empresses, ladies and virgins. For example, Li's Goddess of Vimalakīrti and Lang's Du Qiuniang all belong to this hairstyle. Eighty-seven fairy scrolls, Yongle Palace murals, there are many such hairstyles, generally high, double, flat, hanging and so on, with many changes:

★ Flying fairy bun, Lingyun bun ★

Feixian steamed stuffed bun is mostly high-pitched on both sides. According to "Grilled Hub", "When Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty, the Queen Mother descended to earth, and the fairy buns were different. The emperor ordered the palace to be effective, and the number was Feixian Steamed Bun. " Mostly used for fairies and maidens.

Lingyun bun belongs to a single style with high style. According to China's Notes on Ancient and Modern Times, "After the imperial edict, I combed Lingyun's bun, Yincui gorge combed Wang Xian's nine-eared bun, and Jiufei combed Shen Luan's bun." These are all of high style.

★ Fly in the sky and hang in a bun ★

"Flying" means tying three knots at the top and standing upright. According to "Song Wuxing", "In the sixth year of Yuanjia, folk women scored three points, which is called flying." The ancient "Hundred Flowers" hairstyle also belongs to this type.

Hair in a bun, mostly the hairstyle of a girl who has never left the room. Divide the hair into strands, tie the knot at the top, so that it hangs naturally without leaning, and tie the tail of the hair on the shoulder, also known as dovetail. According to Guo Xi An Yu Jia, "Emperor Han Ming ordered court officials to comb flowers to make buns." In the Tang Dynasty, it was often used as a symbol of virgin hairstyle.

Second, the torsion type.

Twist comb weaving is to divide the hair into several strands, twist it like a twist, and tie it on the top of the head or on both sides. This hairstyle is very elastic and can rotate freely, which is very helpful for beauty. According to Cai Lan magazine, "After Zhen entered the palace, there was a green snake in the palace. After changing clothes every day, form a bun and shape it before and after. Because of its different effects, the bun is different every day, and the number is Lingshe bun. " For example, the fairy in The Eighty-Seven Immortals and the fan in the picture of Tang Zhou's ladies also belong to this hairstyle. There are generally several forms of rotation changes, such as lateral rotation, cross rotation and overlapping rotation.

★ Follow Yunji and Xu Ling Ji ★

"Follow the cloud bun" is similar to the form of side twist, and its bun rolls with the cloud. According to "Guo Xian Jia Yi", "Chen Gong combs her hair." This hairstyle is vivid and ingenious, which is very popular with ladies.

"Xu Ling bun" belongs to the form of cross-twist, and its bun is cross-twist and hangs on the top. According to China's Notes on Ancient and Modern Times, there are Xu Lingji and Xiangyun Ji in Sui Dynasty. This hairstyle is like a cloud, shaking but not falling on the Lingtuo.

A dream of red mansions back to eighty-nine:

But I saw Daiyu wearing a white embroidered fur coat with a silver mouse vest; Wearing a long cloud bun and a red gold plaque on the hairpin, there is no flower; Yang Fei embroidered cotton skirt is tied at the waist. Really like:

Ran Ran Xiang Lian was exposed when the graceful trees fluttered in the wind.

★ Facing the clouds, approaching the fragrant bun, and returning to the heart bun ★

"Lin Yun Jin Xiang Ji" is similar to the form of overlapping twist, and its weaving method is to twist the hair into strands and overlap it at the top, which is vivid and stable. According to China's Notes on Ancient and Modern Times, "In the great cause, imperial court officials combed clouds and approached incense buns." This hairstyle is unique and interesting. This hairstyle is also found in the eighty-seven fairy scrolls.

The winding bun is similar to the winding form, and its weaving method is to twist the hair into strands and tie it to the back or front of the head. According to China's Notes on Ancient and Modern Times, "Liang Wudi court officials combed their hearts." This hairstyle can also be found in the anonymous Yin Zhen Flight to Le Tu Ping in the Qing Dynasty.

Third, the disk stack type.

Disc-stacking comb knitting is to tie the hair bundles together and then fold them on the top of the head or on both sides, which is called "bun". There is a saying in the Ci of Ninggong that "the bun is fragrant and fragrant, and the hairstyle prevailed in the Tang Dynasty, which can be seen in the existing paintings and tomb murals in the Tang Dynasty. The murals of Princess Yongtai's tomb and the fairies in the Eighty-Seven Immortals are all similar to this hairstyle. This hairstyle is beautiful and decorative, and is favored by empresses and ladies. There are many varieties, such as single snail, double snail, lily bun and Panheng bun.

★ Single screw and twin screw ★

The carding method of single screw is to gather strands and stack them like screws. Overhead, there are also some hairlike carvings in the sarcophagus of Princess Yongtai's tomb in the west and north.

Double helix comb method is to divide the hair into two strands and tie a knot at two top corners, also known as "double angle". This hairstyle is also found in the murals of Karazhuo's tomb, and the bun is beautiful and elegant.

★ Lily bun, lingering bun ★

The combing method of "lily bun" is to divide the net hair into strands and twist them on the top of the head. As shown in the figure.

The combing method of "wandering bun" is to curl and stack the hair on the top of the head, which is called wandering bun. According to China's Notes on Ancient and Modern Times, "Chang 'an women are tied up in knots, and there are endless ways to tie them up, until today. "

Fourth, the type of vertebral junction.

Vertebral knot combing method is to tie the hair on the top of the head, in front of the head, behind the head or on both sides, and then bind it with silk rope to form one, two or three vertebrae, and wear it with a hairpin to stand upright on the head. According to "The Origin of Things", "Sun Shou is a horse bun, Zhao Hede is a palace curly hair, and Meng Guang is a vertebral bun." They are all similar to the knot, implying prudence and gentleness. From Shang and Zhou Dynasties to Qin and Han Dynasties, Sui and Tang Dynasties, Song and Yuan Dynasties, Ming and Qing Dynasties, it was extended and changed. There are mainly several categories, such as high-ridged bun, throwing home bun and falling horse bun.

★ High-ridged bun, tossed bun ★

The combing method of Gao Zhuan Ji is to tie the hair at the top, pull it into a single vertebra and stand on the top of the head. According to "Dressing Table", "Song Lizong's comb is high and lofty, and his name is high and lofty." This hairstyle is also seen in the female sculptures of Jinci Temple in Taiyuan, Shanxi Province in the Song Dynasty.

The combing method of "swinging a bun at home" is to pull the spine on the top of your head into a bun, lengthen your temples, and hold your face with tape. According to the Five Classics of Tang Dynasty, it is recorded that "the fake temples of the imperial concubine are jewelry, which is called Yi bun, and the wife of Nuo nationality is very anxious to tie her hair as a prisoner bun, while the women in the late Tang Dynasty comb her hair and hold her face as a family bun". Today, the role of Beijing Opera is still expanding.

★ Throw a steamed bun and throw a horse steamed bun ★

The comb method of inclined bun is to divide the hair into strands, twist it into vertebrae, and put the inclined hair tail in front of or on the side of the head, which is quite common in ladies' paintings. The Book of Jin said: "Princess Taiyuan, you must put a bun on your temples."

The combing method of falling horse bun is to tie the hair together into a big spine, and tie a silk rope in the middle of the spine, which looks like a horse's belly and falls on the side or back of the head. According to the "Original Records", "Sun Shou is a horse's bun." Notes on Ancient and Modern China also records that "the falling horse bun is just a Japanese bun, and the cloud: the shape of falling horse is also".

Verb (abbreviation of verb) is anti-universal.

The inverted comb method is to gather the hair, tie it backwards at the top, and then comb it into various forms, such as double knives, which are called "rotary knife bun". A frightened bird wants to fly and is called "Jinggu bun". Cheng Yuanbao is called "Yuanbao steamed bun". Turn it into a high wall, which is called "high bun" and "flower beauty figure" according to the records in Dressing Table. "In Kaiyuan, the comb was turned into a crane bun, and the noble lady made a worry bun. In Zhenyuan, it was really a bun with five colors of flowers." This kind of anti-comb is difficult to weave and prevailed in the prosperous Tang Dynasty. It is the dress of the empresses and ladies, such as the anti-comb style in Han Xizai's night banquet. Its changes generally include "double-edged steamed bun", "surprised steamed bun", "Chaotian steamed bun" and "Yuanbao steamed bun".

★ Double-knife steamed stuffed bun, Jinggu steamed stuffed bun ★

The combing method of double-edged bun is to tie the hair on it and then turn it into a double-edged bun. According to "Dressing Table", "Wude in Tang Dynasty wore a bun in the palace. Comb the bun upside down, comb it back to the real bun in Zhenyuan and paste it with five-color flowers. " It's all about the opposite hairstyle.

"Stunning bun" is also one of the reverse styles. Its combing method is to pull up the hair and turn it upside down, so that the frightened birds want to spread their wings, which is vivid and interesting. According to China's Notes on Ancient and Modern Times, people in Wei Palace like to draw long eyebrows, which makes them surprised by moths.

★ Chaotian Bao, Yuanbao Bao ★

Chaotian bun is also one of the forms, and the weaving method will be tied up and tied to it. Then turn it into a high bun. According to records, "Song Lizong combed a high bun on the top of the palace princess's head and said," If you don't go down, you should dish it up. "The female statue of Taiyuan Jinci built in the Song Dynasty is similar to this hairstyle.

The combing method of Yuanbao bun is to tie the hair at the top, and then cover the wood or wig in a cage, showing the shape of Yuanbao. "Book of Jin" said: "Since a lot of hair is used, it is impossible to carry it constantly, so put it on a wooden cage first, which is called a fake bun or a fake head." This hairstyle is similar to the female figurines unearthed in the tombs of the Tang couple.

Six, double hanging type

Double-hanging comb knitting method is to divide the top of hair into two strands, comb them into symmetrical bun or hair circle, and hang them on both sides relatively. This hairstyle is mostly used for maids, maids, maids or underage girls. According to records, from the Qin Dynasty to modern times, the most typical ones are Shuangji and Twin Bun, which are especially common in the preserved ancient paintings. This hairstyle is similar to the maid of the provider of the Thousand Buddha Cave in Dunhuang and the maid-in-waiting of Yan's Liedi Tu. Its changes generally include "double bun", "hanging bun" and "double flat bun".

★ Double bun and hanging bun ★

Double bun is the most common hairstyle in double hanging style, and its combing method is to divide the hair evenly on both sides, then comb it into a bun and put it on both sides of the head. The extra burden is decorated with drooping hair, commonly known as bangs, which is generally used for maids and maids.

The combing method of double hanging bun is to divide the hair into two strands from the top of the head. Tie it in a bun or hang it on both sides, and decorate your forehead with hanging hair. According to "Dan Yin Lu" records: "The clothing of the harem in the Northern Qi Dynasty, female officials are eight products, and they are biased. (Note: The hair hangs down to cover the eyes, which is the decoration of girls in the Li Dynasty. Its four short hairs only cover the eyebrows, while the long hair on the top of the head is wrapped in a bun. The so-called temples in the Song Dynasty were also one-sided with lotus leaves. There are still some in this world ") and it is similar to this hairstyle.

★ Double flat bun and hair ★

Double flat hair is a double hanging comb weaving method, in which the hair is evenly divided on both sides. Then tie it into a circle and make it symmetrical and vertical. Hanging on both sides. This hairstyle is quite common in ladies' pictures, and is mostly used for unmarried girls or children.

Hair is the hairstyle of children or unmarried girls. The combing method is to divide the hair into two strands, symmetrically tie them into two vertebrae, and place them on both sides of the top of the head, and lead out a small lock of hair in the bun. Let it droop naturally.

Lotus crown: This picture is recorded in the lotus crown carved by a female in Jinci, Taiyuan. Its crown is like a lotus, decorated with golden jade, tied to the top bun. How easy it was for women in the Tang and Song Dynasties.

Corolla: There is only one bun in the crown, and there are many flowers on the crown, which is more useful for ladies in the Ming Dynasty. This picture is taken from the corolla of Tang Yin's Shu Meng Palace Prostitute.

Guan Feng: This painting is taken from Guan Feng in the stone carving of Prince Yide's tomb in Tang Dynasty. This is a gift from ancient empresses and concubines. The crown is decorated with phoenix, pearl and jade, which is heavier than ceremony.

Woman: A woman's scarf is a kind of silk scarf, tied in a bun and tied with a hairpin. In Song Dynasty, Liang Hongyu liked to wear a scarf, so she was often called a heroine among women.

Reverse the bun towards the moon

Tian Luan Zan Shuang Huan Ji

Ruyi Gao Huan Luji Ji

Tongxin chicken kidney disorderly chicken

Ruyigao Ji Wang County Jiuhuanji

Lingyun Ji yun bin advanced

Turn your head in a bun.

Like a cloud, a high bun falls off a horse.

Jinyun Ji Xiang Huang Chaoji

Han Yan Furong Chicken Chaoyang Seamless Chicken

The Spirit Snake and Tian Fei.

Hanging a cloud bun and scaring a mandarin duck bun

Fringed bag Xiangyun bag

Chaojinyun Ji Xiang Baihe Chicken

The Story of Guiji Yunyao Terrace in Furong County

Ji Baihua double bread

Xiangyun Ji Hu pot-stewed chicken

Couples Lingyun Steamed Bun Yun Fei Xieji

Dress

1, a masterpiece handed down from generation to generation, the styles of big breasts, right breasts, jiaodai, wide robes and big sleeves, and take off your coat (represented by Qin and Han costumes) have continued from Shang, Zhou (Spring and Autumn Period and Warring States Period), Qin and Han Dynasties, Three Kingdoms, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, Sui and Tang Dynasties, Five Dynasties, Song, Yuan and Ming Dynasties to this day. This is the most common style of Japanese kimono.

2. The popular T-shirts (worn by Li Shimin of Emperor Taizong) since Sui and Tang Dynasties continued the Tang Dynasty, the Five Dynasties, the Song Dynasty, the Yuan Dynasty and the Ming Dynasty, and influenced Japan, Korea and other countries. Common portraits of Song Taizu and Ming Taizu all wear this type of clothing. So far, the clothes worn by the Japanese emperor on some occasions are all variants of this Hanfu. Note that this T-shirt also has a right collar and is fastened with a small round button near the right shoulder.

Early women's clothes were similar to men's clothes, and they were also worn deep. Later it was mainly skirts.

The costumes of the Han Dynasty are different in some places, but the main parts are the same. The basic style of deep clothes in the Western Han Dynasty is the same as that of Hanfu in the Ming Dynasty, but the details are different.

During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, clothing generally followed the service system of Shang Dynasty, but changed slightly. The style of clothes is slightly looser than that of Shang Dynasty. The sleeves are two sizes, and the collar is generally rectangular without buttons. Usually tied to the waist, and some still hang jade ornaments. There were mainly two kinds of belts at that time: one was made of silk fabric, which was called "big belt" or "gentry belt"; Another kind of belt is made of leather, which is called "belt". At this time, a deep coat with exquisite curves appeared. Compared with other clothes, there is an obvious difference between top and bottom, which is called "continuous hem" "Sewing" means skirt, "continuation" means lengthening skirt, and "hemming" means describing skirt style. Changed the previous cutting method that clothes were mostly spread at the bottom. The front and rear pieces of the left skirt are stitched, and the rear skirt is lengthened. The lengthened skirt forms a triangle, which is worn around the back and then tied with a belt.

Qin is still black, so the standard color of Qin clothing is black. But the style is still broad-chested and right-handed Basically follow the Warring States period.

Men's clothing styles in Han Dynasty can be roughly divided into Qu Luan and Zhi Luan. Qu Luan, a kind of deep clothing popular in the Warring States period, was still used in the Han Dynasty, but it was more common in the early Western Han Dynasty. By the Eastern Han Dynasty, it was rare for men to wear deep clothes, usually straight clothes, but they could not be used as formal clothes. During the Qin and Han dynasties, clothes with deep curves were not only worn by men, but also the most common clothing style in women's wear. This kind of clothes is tight and narrow, long enough to mop the floor. The hem is generally trumpet-shaped and does not show its feet. Sleeves are wide and narrow, and cuffs are mostly wrapped. The collar part is very distinctive, usually a cross collar, and the neckline is very low to expose underwear. Wear a few clothes, and the collar of each layer will be exposed, up to more than three layers, which is called "triple clothes". In addition, the tight-fitting clothes with narrow sleeves in Han Dynasty. After many twists and turns, the clothes were wrapped around the hips and tied with ribbons. There are also exquisite and gorgeous patterns painted on the clothes.

Both men and women can wear it in Han Dynasty. This kind of dress appeared as early as the Western Han Dynasty, but it can't be used as a formal dress, because the ancient trousers had no crotch, only two trouser legs were put on the knees and tied around the waist with a belt. If you don't put on a coat, these crotch-less pants will be exposed, which was considered disrespectful at that time, so you should wear a crooked deep coat outside. Later, with the improvement of clothing, the form of pants also improved, and crotch pants (called "crotch") appeared. As a result of the improvement of underwear, it is redundant to wrap the deep clothes around the front, so after the Eastern Han Dynasty, straight lines gradually became popular, replacing the deep clothes.

During the Wei, Jin and Southern Dynasties, men's clothing had the characteristics of the times, generally wearing large sleeves. Until the Southern Dynasties, this kind of shirt was still loved by men from all walks of life and became a fashion.

Women's dresses in Wei and Jin dynasties inherited the customs of Qin and Han dynasties and improved them on the basis of tradition. Generally speaking, they wear shirts, jackets and flannel, with skirts below. Most styles are frugal on the top and rich on the bottom, with tight clothes, big cuffs, pleated skirts and long and loose hems, achieving a handsome and chic effect.

In the Tang Dynasty, in addition to wearing round neck and narrow sleeve robes, officials still wore dresses on some important occasions, such as sacrificial ceremonies. Most of the styles of dresses inherited the old system of Sui Dynasty, such as wearing a belt or cage crown, a double-breasted sleeve shirt, a skirt and a Yu Pei ribbon. Tang costume is the main dress of women in Tang Dynasty. During the Sui Dynasty and the early Tang Dynasty, women used small sleeve as shorts and wore tight-fitting long skirts with high waists, usually above the waist, and some even tied ribbons under their armpits, giving people a pretty and slender feeling. The skirts in the middle Tang Dynasty are wider than those in the early Tang Dynasty, and the others have not changed much. Plum blossom gauze robe

For example:

Silk-wrapped golden embroidered dress

Silk blouse

Ju Wen Shang Shang

Pleated wishful moon skirt

Liu Cai dark flower brocade palace costume

Gold, silver, silk, phoenix, embroidered robe

Jade brocade satin cloak

Gold thread pick skirt

Yin embroider baidiequn

Scatter flowers and smoke shirts

Hundred flowers mopping skirt

Moire crepe robe

Lotus root pipa jacket

Purple tulle jade skirt

A soft wool brocade cloak

Brocade wool cloak

Plain velvet embroidered coat

Twisted gold and silver silk thread and smooth silk brocade quilt

Embroidered cosmetic skirt

Boluo robe

A suit with a treasure pattern.

The golden butterfly is wearing a satin dress with flowers.

Palace satin plain chiffon skirt

Carved clay, gold and silver, ruyi moire satin dress

Pipa lapel coat

Yun Jin Yanxi yi

Flowers and dark brocade suit

Make-up satin fox pleated coat

Ba da yun chun Jin formal attire

Double-breasted feather dress

The eight regiments meet and feel happy. Silver rat skin thick brocade cloak

Yun Fei makeup satin woven colorful flowers flying butterfly brocade.

Brocade fur cloak

Bi Xia yun Wen Julian a pair of peacock brocade

Jin Si Kou Peony Shu Jin Yi

Dark pleated satin skirt

Golden silk brocade dress

Smoke butterfly skirt

A plain pleated skirt

Su embroidery yuehua brocade shirt

Sixi Ruyi Brocade Forging

Silk-picking double nest cloud goose suit

Blue clouds and moire robes

Jade flower crepe skirt

Carve a golden butterfly and put on a brocade coat.

Wujinyun Xiushan

Butterfly narcissus skirt

Softbank shallow lily skirt

Swirl yarn embroidered skirt

Ruyi moire shirt

Liu Caihua flew vinegar to Zhai Yi 111.

Twelve broken fairy skirts

Ruyun yarn double-breasted clothes

Embroidered and carved silk, Cao Rui Yunyan, wide sleeves, double silk twill and Luan clothes

Satin embroidered butterfly skirt

Ruyi satin embroidery colorful Xiangyun Chao Fu

Satin embroidered clothes

Multicolored silk shirt

Vertical water pattern babao vertical water skirt

Satin weave, with a pinch of flowers on the inner front and outer skirt.

Pan Xiuchun cotton dress

A pleated phoenix tail skirt with mop sleeves

Golden silk and white striped epiphyllum and rain silk brocade skirt

Peony Feng Huangwen Huanhuajin

Scattered pleated skirt

Ancient pattern double butterfly cloud thousand water skirt

Yulan scattering yarn clothes

Peony thin hookah dress

Ancient smoke pattern Bi Xia Luo Yi

Scattered flowers and wishful clouds and smoke skirts

Smoke, water and flower skirts

Cai Xia Qian se plum blossom skirt

Peach Blossom Cloudy Smoked Shirt

Plum blossom nightgown with floor-sweeping smoke cage

Floral green gauze dew lily skirt

Butterfly, hundred flowers, smoke and phoenix tail skirt

Yunsi cloak

Soft silk mopping dress

Tuan Jin Zhuo Hua yi yi

Phnom Penh Pipa Lapel Coat

Pink brocade satin skirt

Narrow neck printed cotton gown

Fine thread leno

Gorgeous double iris shirt

Crescent phoenix tail skirt

Jade cigarette skirt

Embroidered skirt