Of course, in the historical development of China, ethnic groups have influenced and merged with each other, and costumes representing national cultural symbols have also influenced each other. Among them, the most representative is Khufu. In the Song Dynasty, Shen Kuo said in The Story of Meng Qian Bitan that "China's clothes have been Hu clothes since the Northern Qi Dynasty." Although it is a bit absolute, it can also be seen that the costumes of northern ethnic minorities have a great influence on the costumes of the Central Plains.
When it comes to Khufu, China's history books have different interpretations in different periods. "Hu" in Han Dynasty mostly refers to "Xiongnu", although sometimes it also includes nomadic people from northeast to northwest. In the current Chinese dictionary, the definition of "khufu" is: "refers to the costumes of ancient western and northern nationalities, and later refers to foreign costumes." In short, the understanding of "Khufu" by the Han people in the Central Plains is mostly regarded as the costumes of the northern minorities.
The first person who studied Khufu in an all-round way in Han areas of China was King Wuling of Zhao in the Warring States Period. For military purposes, he advocated "learning to ride and shoot from Khufu". The reason why King Wuling of Zhao proposed a comprehensive study of the costumes of the northern minorities was that he saw the major defects of the traditional costumes in the Central Plains at that time in Riding and Shooting. Before the Western Zhou Dynasty, people wore clothes under their coats and made them into two pieces, regardless of gender. One is worn on the upper body and is called "clothes". There is a cut on the lower part, and it is named "Shang". Later "pleats" and "skirts" all evolved from this kind of clothing. During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, there was another kind of clothing, which combined the upper and lower skirts of the coat into one to synthesize a kind of clothing, called "deep coat". Later, the "robes" and "shirts" worn by China people were all developed on the basis of "deep clothes".
There is a record of the shape of "deep clothes" in Confucian classics before Qin Dynasty. For example, the "deep clothes" in the Book of Rites includes: "The ancients wore deep clothes and had a system that followed rules, rules, ropes, rights and balance. Short without skin, long without soil. Continue to sew the hem, halfway through. You can compete with your elbow. The length of the dress is as bad as the elbow. Take it, don't be tired, don't be tired, be a boneless person. "
What does this mean? In other words, the "deep clothes" worn by the ancients had certain sizes and styles. In order to meet the requirements of rules, rules, ropes, rights and balances. Even if the length of the "deep coat" is shorter, the instep cannot be exposed; No matter how long it is, it can't be dragged to the ground. On both sides of the "petticoat" are wide trousers, which overlap before and after wearing. The waist width of "deep clothes" is half that of "deep clothes". The height of the joint between the underarm sleeve and the jacket is based on the principle of free elbow movement. The length of the hand part of the sleeve is equal to the elbow. In the position of the belt, don't press the thigh bone below, don't press the ribs above, but tie it to the boneless part above the thigh bone and below the ribs. "
Zheng Xuan wrote: "If you continue to belong to Judah, you will be satisfied with those who are beside the dress. It is the same, and there is no difference before and after. " "Yi" is what Guo Pu said in Jin Dynasty. That is what we now call the "front" of clothes. Because the collar of clothes is mostly open in this "front piece", it is called big lapel and double lapel. If the skirt is covered on the right, it is called "right skirt", and the one on the left is called "left skirt", which is also called "right skirt" or "left skirt".
This kind of clothes advocates wide sleeves, and the "skirt" and "deep coat" are very long, which is not suitable for riding at all, but only for riding. Therefore, the aristocratic children of the Zhou dynasty received the education of "six arts", including "imperial", that is, the ability to drive a carriage, "shooting" and "shooting", rather than "riding". Even if you learn archery, you should tie up your wide sleeves with a leather cover. From the Spring and Autumn Period to the mid-Warring States Period, wars broke out in various countries. In most cases, chariots were used, and cavalry did not occupy an important position. Cavalry, especially "riding and shooting", is a natural skill of nomadic people in the north. "Riding and shooting" moves very fast, attacks are extremely sudden, and it comes and goes in a hurry. It can adapt to all kinds of terrain, far from being comparable to chariots. Among the Seven Heroes in the Warring States Period, Qin, Zhao and Yan bordered the northern minority areas and were harassed by Hu cavalry, so these countries built the Great Wall to fight against the northern cavalry at that time, and the Qin Changcheng, Zhao Great Wall and Yan Great Wall that can still be seen now were all built at that time.
It was in the process of confrontation between harassment and anti-harassment that Han people within the Great Wall gradually came into contact with "Khufu". At that time, "Khufu" was suitable for cavalry, with tight sleeves, pants and boots, and it was convenient to get on and off the horse and shoot. In the period of King Wuling of Zhao, he began to reform clothes resolutely to adapt to the frontier war, and put forward the view of "serving, so using". This was actually quite a bold reform at that time. Because clothing represents culture, cohesion and ethnic groups. His reform is tantamount to digging a grave for conservatives. In fact, when he proposed reform, all kinds of objections poured in. Some people say that this is "the law of the former king" and "the teaching of sages", while others say that this is "the common people and the people" and "the trip to barbarians". However, Wang Wuling was not intimidated by opposition, but insisted on reform, not only for the soldiers and officers of the army, but also for doctors, sons and even himself.
Because of riding and shooting tactics, Zhao's military strength has been greatly enhanced, and the new cavalry has played a great role in fighting Zhongshan, destroying forests and making trouble. Even later, when Li Mu defeated the Huns, besides paying attention to bonfires and intelligence, he mainly relied on powerful cavalry.
If Wang Wuling of Zhao learned "Khufu" in order to strengthen his military strength and serve the long-term stability of the country, then the Lingdi of the Eastern Han Dynasty learned "Khufu" completely to imitate "flattering Hu" and only to satisfy his better enjoyment. Emperor Ling of the Han Dynasty probably liked "Hu" more than any other emperors. He is addicted to anything with the word "Hu". Hu Chuang, Hu Zan, Hu Di and Hu Dance are all here. His preference has also made the children of senior officials in Beijing follow suit. The so-called "contention among all the nobles in Kyoto" is unprincipled and disregards "decency", so it was reprimanded by Ye Fan as "obeying the demon".
From the southern Xiongnu in the Eastern Han Dynasty to the sixteen countries in the Eastern Jin Dynasty, the northern nomadic people gradually merged with the Han nationality in the vast area north of the Yangtze River. Emperor Xiaowen, the great ancestor of the Northern Wei Dynasty, whose birth mother and grandmother were both Han women, was influenced by China culture since childhood and appreciated it very much. After he moved to Luoyang, he asked Xianbei people to change their Chinese surname, speak Chinese and wear Hanfu. Emperor xiaowen's sinicization reform will inevitably lead to strong opposition from some people. History as a Mirror says, "China people are even less happy". Once, when he returned to Beijing from the south, he was very dissatisfied when he saw the Xianbei aristocratic women in Luoyang still wearing small jackets in Hu clothes. He asked Ren Yuancheng, acting as a court official, "Why not observe". Wang Yuancheng explained that it was interesting. He said, "There are fewer people who wear Hu clothes than those who can't." Emperor Xiaowen scolded: "Huns are strange! Does Rencheng want to make it all? In a word, you can subjugate the country', just call it! "Visible emperor xiaowen is very serious about promoting sinicization. But in fact, under the circumstances that Emperor Xiaowen vigorously promoted Hanfu, "Hu Fu" was not banned, but played a role in transforming the traditional costumes of the Han nationality. This is very obvious in uniforms, so in the Northern Qi Dynasty, "Khufu" finally became a trend. It is recorded in the Book of the Old Tang Dynasty, Yu Fu Zhi, that the uniforms in the Northern Dynasty were "mixed with the system of Yi Rong", which was different from the "scarf and brown skirt" in the Southern Dynasty. Since the Northern Qi Dynasty, there have been long hats, short boots, sleeves and coats. "After the Sui and Tang Dynasties, this uniform spread to the south of the Yangtze River. The entry of "Khufu" into the Central Plains also means that the integration of Xiongnu, Xianbei and other ethnic groups, which were originally called "Hu people", with the Han nationality has basically been completed.
After the establishment of the Tang Dynasty, the empire's influence extended as far as the surrounding areas of China, with strong military strength and self-confidence in culture. Therefore, from the upper class to the ordinary people, they are all dressed in harmony. It is not surprising that ordinary men and women also learn "Hu makeup", which also shows the confidence of the nation. Because only a confident nation will not adopt a closed and conservative policy. During the Song Dynasty, the national strength was weak and self-confidence was greatly hit. All foreign clothes, including "Khufu", are strictly prohibited. According to Wu Zeng's "Notes on Gaizhai", in December of four years, there was an imperial edict in Song Huizong Grand View: "Recently, foreigners in Beijing are wearing felt hats, robes and belts, and Kaifeng Prefecture should strictly prohibit them." Text. In the early years of Zheng He, the imperial court issued another imperial edict: "You should learn, and you can't wear a felt hat in the capital." The History of the Song Dynasty Imperial Records was published in Zhenghe for seven years, and Song Huizong wrote another edict: "If you dare to serve the Khitan, if you feel like a hat or pier, it will violate the imperial pen theory." A "felt hat" is a wide-brimmed hat made of animal fur. In fact, this kind of hat is not strictly a Qidan costume. At that time, it was already very "Central Plains", only with a little "foreign" color. Jundun is a kind of pantyhose worn by women. In Song Huizong, even ordinary people have to wear hats and trousers, which is repeatedly prohibited. This not only shows that the people at that time didn't care about the bans of these emperors and senior officials, but also shows that the rulers at that time were worried about being "Hu Hua". This is far from Li Shimin's claim that "since ancient times, Huawei has been heavy, I am light, and I love him as one"
In the Qing Dynasty, Manchu entered the Central Plains, and Manchu costumes immediately entered the Central Plains. China's traditional crown dress is almost completely forbidden to wear. Even if the most solemn ceremony is held, you must wear "robes". At this time, "Hu Fu" has completely become a "national costume". Although women in Han areas still wear clothes such as Lu, coat, skirt and trousers at home, the robes worn by women in the Eight Banners are gradually accepted by people. In the 1920s and 1930s, this improved dress, called "Qipao", began to spread throughout the country. Since then, "Cheongsam", formerly known as "Khufu", has become an important costume for Han women in China, and even a symbol of China's costume culture overseas.