Introduction to embroidery:
Embroidery, also known as silk embroidery, is one of the excellent traditional national handicrafts in China. According to the chapter and clothing system recorded in Shangshu four thousand years ago, it is stipulated that "clothes are embroidered with paintings"; There are also descriptions of plainclothes Zhu embroidery in The Book of Songs. In the Song Dynasty, the fashion of advocating embroidery clothing gradually became popular among the people, which also promoted the development of silk embroidery technology in China. Embroidery in Ming Dynasty has become a very expressive work of art, which produced Suzhou embroidery, Guangdong embroidery, Xiang embroidery and Shu embroidery, and is called "four famous embroideries". Suzhou embroidery and silk reeling are the most famous.
Embroidery classification:
According to the origin, it can be divided into Shen Xiu (Shanghai), Suzhou embroidery (Jiangsu), Guangdong embroidery (Guangdong) and Hunan embroidery (Hunan).
According to the processing method, embroidery can be divided into "machine embroidery" and "hand embroidery"
Detailed introduction of embroidery:
Embroidery originated from people's need to decorate themselves. Historically, there have been records of painted patterns in the era of the Yellow Emperor. That is to say, ancient primitive humans knew how to beautify themselves with colors. At the beginning, the color is painted on the body, which is called "showing the body"; Further stabbing on the body is called "tattoo"; Later, it was painted on clothes and then developed into embroidery on clothes. According to the Book of History, Yu Shun's clothes are of various colors. There are six patterns of China's sun, moon, stars, mountains, dragons and insects on the coat, and twelve patterns of Zong Yi, algae, fire and pink rice on the bottom coat, which are called ten chapters.
In the Book of Rites Sacrificing Righteousness of the Zhou Dynasty, it was said that "all the emperors and generals in ancient times had government sericulture. When the silkworm is ripe, silk reeling is offered, dyed red, green, mysterious and yellow, which means "the article is a armor", that is, various patterns are embroidered on the dress with silk threads of different colors. Ci Hai interprets the word "fu" as embroidering semi-black and semi-white patterns on ancient costumes; The word "Nuo" is interpreted as embroidering half-blue and half-black patterns on ancient costumes. As for the word "Wen", it is called "Wen" embroidered with blue and red lines and "Zhang" embroidered with red and white lines in ancient Chinese. In fact, the word "Tiao" meant "Shen Xiu" in ancient times, and was later escaped as a metaphor.
Another meaning of "Wen" refers to painting, which is the same as "Wen". "The Book of Rites and the Moon Order" says that "Wen embroidery is constant". According to the annotation, "Wen refers to painting, and the dresses and tops of ancient sacrifices are all painted, while the bottoms are embroidered". In a word, embroidery has a long history. The Shang Dynasty had specialized textile and sewing industries. Silk fabrics were valued by the royal family, and the Shang royal family set up a civil servant female silkworm to be in charge of sericulture. The earliest form of embroidery is lock embroidery, and the earliest embroidery seen at present is the "Dragon, Phoenix and Tiger Embroidery" unearthed from the Chu Tomb of the Warring States Period in Jingzhou. This is a Luo Lou Suo embroidery work, which is well preserved. Later, among the cultural relics unearthed from the Han tombs, there were many embroidery products, such as embroidered silk robes, yellow embroidered robes and HongLing embroidered robes. A silk embroidery was unearthed from the tomb of the Eastern Han Dynasty in Wuwei, Gansu Province. The embroidery thread used was extremely thin and unprecedented. There are no unlucky women in Wang Yi's local brocade in Han Dynasty. It seems that it is not too much to look with your eyes open. Embroidery in the Han Dynasty is mostly lock embroidery (braid embroidery). Of course, several of them are from Ping Xiu.
According to "Taking the Treasures of Jun", during the Three Kingdoms period, Sun Quan, the Lord of Wu, often failed to pacify Wei and Shu. When he was fighting in the army, he always hoped to get someone who was good at painting and could draw the images of mountains, rivers, soldiers and formations. Zhao Da, the prime minister, has a sister who is good at painting, ingenious and able to sew colorful silk with her fingers to weave brocade. Zhao Da introduced his sister to Sun Quan, also known as Mrs. Zhao. Sun Quan asked her to draw pictures of Kyushu, rivers and lakes, plains and mountains and rivers. Lady Zhao said, "The color of Danqing is easy to fade away and can't last long. I can embroider, I can embroider on other countries' silks, and I can take the shape of five emperors, rivers, seas and cities. " After the map was embroidered, it was presented to Sun Quan, and Master Wu was overjoyed. People called it needlework at that time. Therefore, history has been handed down, and embroidery was created by Mrs. Zhao during the Three Kingdoms period. Unfortunately, this embroidery has not been preserved and can only be speculated by future generations.
Fragments of Northern Wei embroidered Buddha statues were found in Cave 125- 126 in Dunhuang. It's a portrait of a Buddha and two Bodhisattvas, which shows King Yang Guangwang in the 11th year of Taihe (AD 487). Shen Liangyue has an inscription, and the preface says, "Embroider and respect, and live a long life." . It can be seen that the application of embroidery in the Six Dynasties was not only in clothing, but also in the field of embroidered Buddha and embroidery.
Embroidered Buddha was also very popular in the Tang Dynasty. Fa Zhu Yuan Lin said: "On the occasion of Kang Xian's celebration, more than 20 temples were built in Xijing and Xiu Xiang was built. It was lifted ten feet, which sounded shocking. This is the largest one in Xiu Xiang. " There is a saying in the poem "Song of Drinking Eight Immortals" by the poet Du Fu, "Su Jin embroidered Buddha often likes to retreat from Zen after drunkenness before long-term fasting", which also reflects the universality of embroidered Buddha in the Tang Dynasty. Clothing embroidery also became popular in the Tang Dynasty. According to "Biography of Empresses in the Old Tang Dynasty", "The palace is beautifully woven and there are as many as 700 workers in the palace". In the palace, bureaucrats certainly follow each other. Later, even the emperor thought it was too much. Tang Daizong wrote an imperial edict in the sixth year of Dali (AD 77 1 year), saying: "Brocade and embroidery consume too much women's labor ..... From now on, it is forbidden to produce all embroidery patterns such as Panlong, Duifeng, Kirin, Lion, Tianma, exorcism and Dajin. As for the longevity Korean white brocade and large and small brocade, they are still made according to the usual practice. Tell officials at all levels to treat it this way, and there must be no mistakes. However, the imperial edict could not resist the wheel of history and the trend of the times, and embroidery was not banned, but further developed. In addition to the traditional braid embroidery, Qi Zhen, winding, looping, sewing, needle and thread rust, Ping Jin method, looping gold, looping silver, pulling gold lock, velvet, velvet silk and attaching silk will be developed. During this period, the trocar, needle cutter and needle roller were injured. In the Song Dynasty, the government established Wenxiu Academy. From emperors to officials, they all wear embroidered clothes. According to the official rank, all kinds of clothes are clearly defined.
Due to the advocacy of the government, folk customs have flourished and embroidery has reached an unprecedented height. In addition to Wenxiu Academy, there is also an embroidery painting major, which specializes in embroidering various paintings and works of art according to samples, which are divided into landscapes, pavilions, figures, flowers, fur and other subjects. Since then, embroidery has been divided into two ways, one is practical clothing art, and the other is appreciation art. With the vigorous advocacy of the government, the artistic quality of embroidery craftsmen has been continuously improved, and great innovations have been made in embroidery needle treatment and embroidery methods. Tu Long's Textual Research Notes describes Song embroidery and says: "Song boudoir embroidered landscapes, terraces, flowers and birds, with fine needle and thread, without revealing the edge. Sometimes, only one-tenth of the silk is used to divide the silk, and the needle used is as thin as hair, so the characters are very clear-cut, the silk color is dazzling, and the spirit and shape are ready. Color matching is better than painting, and embroidery and spring breeze are really out of reach. Dong Qichang, a painter and connoisseur in Ming Dynasty, also highly appreciated the achievements of Song embroidery. He said: "Song embroidery is exquisite in color, and it is vivid and wonderful regardless of landscapes, figures, flowers and birds, and its beauty is better than painting. The embroidery of a woman with ten fingers in the spring breeze can always surpass the painter's pen and ink. Wen Zhenheng's "Long History" also said: "Song embroidery is fine in needle and thread, delicate in color, dazzling in color, interesting in mountains and rivers, graceful and intimate in flowers and birds, and one or two paintings must be hidden. In the highly developed Song Dynasty, famous embroidery craftsmen emerged one after another, such as Si Bai, Mo Lin and Qi Mei. The Taiwan Province Provincial Museum has a collection of Guanyin, immortal Buddha, Lao Zi, Lao Zi riding an ox, Gumbo butterfly in Meizhushan, birthday portrait of magistrate of a county, bathing portrait in Xianchi, flower and bird portrait painted by Huang Quan (painter of the Fifth Covenant), all of which are excellent embroideries.
There were many wenxiu bureaus in Yuan Dynasty. From the Southern Song Dynasty to the south of the Yangtze River, after the establishment of the Yuan Dynasty, intellectuals or Gouan became an official or lived in seclusion, and the landlord culture rose in the south of China. Pure appreciation of embroidery school is characterized by imitating embroidery and calligraphy, separating from folk embroidery technology and combining with painting art. Refinement and innovative development of Ping Xiu's needling. Colored thread embroidery technology is very mature and unique in embroidery.
There was an embroidery workshop in Beijing in the Ming Dynasty. Due to the refinement of dyeing and weaving technology, yarns with various shades and shades have been developed. Most women are good at needlework. Embroidering embroidery needed by families, collecting and appreciating exquisite embroidery has become a fashion in the upper class. Folk Gu embroidery has become an independent appreciation craft without real life. Gu Jia, Lu Xiangyuan, Shanghai, developed the embroidery skills of Song and Yuan Dynasties, taking the calligraphy and painting works of ancient and modern celebrities as the manuscript, and used various materials to embroider paintings, such as Pu Cao and Tai Hao. Its exquisite conception, exquisite natural materials, exquisite and beautiful embroidery, absorbed western romanticism and highlighted the perspective effect, so its style is famous from generation to generation.
Weaving and embroidering techniques in Qing Dynasty are still divided into official embroidery and private embroidery. The official embroidery is concentrated in Nanjing, Suzhou and Hangzhou, which is called Jiangnan Sanzhi. It uses the most advanced technology to make objects for emperors and officials, thus making works with amazing technical level. In the city, there are shops dealing in embroidery crafts, and many painters participate in the design of embroidery drawings. There are thousands of kinds of embroidery, daily necessities are the mainstream of embroidery, and embroidery products are exported to Japan, Southeast Asia, Europe and America. "A dull woman has no misfortune, and a patient woman can do anything." Exquisite and brilliant style, full of flowers, competing for the exotic, has formed an embroidery system with local characteristics in all parts of the country, such as Suzhou embroidery (Jiangsu), Sichuan embroidery (Sichuan), Guangdong embroidery (Guangdong) and Hunan embroidery (Hunan). In the first year of Daoguang in Qing Dynasty, the first embroidery work, Embroidery Spectrum, was published by Ding Pei.
At the end of the Qing Dynasty, western learning spread to the east, and Shen Shou created "simulated embroidery" with diverse and three-dimensional stitches, combining with western realistic expressions. Shen Shou is also an outstanding embroidery educator and art theorist. He taught embroidery in many places, and orally compiled a manual of embroidery in Guan Xue. At the beginning of Qing Dynasty, it inherited the tradition of Ming Dynasty, and adopted geometric patterns, large-scale flowers and branches, and traditional auspicious patterns. The color is mainly rich and heavy, and the style is simple and elegant, solemn and generous. In the mid-Qing Dynasty, influenced by western paintings, decorative patterns tended to be small and refined, with western flower patterns and gorgeous colors. Auspicious patterns are widely used in late embroidery themes. The patterns on clothes often include ball flowers and ball flowers. Embroidery patterns such as opening the light, covering the ground and brocade patterns are also quite popular. During the Qianlong period, color was fond of gold, and there were special styles such as ink embroidery and three blue embroidery in the late Qing Dynasty. Dozens of stitches are mature, and colored embroidery is the mainstream of stitches.
In the early years of the Republic of China, there were many embroidery artists who inherited the Qing Dynasty, and embroidery research institutes were also established in important embroidery producing areas. The rulers of the new era under the non-imperial system no longer use embroidery as a decorative official uniform, and the atmosphere of folk learning embroidery and engaging in embroidery technology has gradually declined because of advocating the west wind and national war. Although embroidery technology is developing continuously, we can't see the grand occasion of embroidery in every household.
■ Introduction of embroidery stitch
Category: direct embroidery, loop stitch, sleeve stitch, spring stitch, grab stitch, plain stitch, loose stitch, knitting stitch, application stitch, auxiliary stitch and variant stitch.
Introduction: One of the embroidery stitches: direct embroidery.
Straight stitch: Embroidered entirely with vertical thread, with thread lifting needles at the edge, all parallel, and neat edges. Color matching is based on one color line, and there is no sum color. Where the stitch is too long, thread nails are used, which later evolved into the method of laying needles and carving lines.
The second method of embroidery stitch: winding needle
Disc needle is a kind of needle method to represent curved body. Comprises a cutting needle, a connecting needle, a needle roller and a rotating needle. Among them, the cutting needle was the earliest, and later it developed into a rotating needle.
The third embroidery stitch: sleeve stitch
It started in the Tang Dynasty, prevailed in the Song Dynasty, and was further developed in the Ming Dynasty. At that time, Luxiang Garden was also in charge of embroidery, and Shen Shoushi was in the Qing Dynasty.
Single set: also known as flat set. Its embroidery method is as follows: the first batch of needles starts from the edge and the edge is neat; The second batch of falling needles is in the first batch, and the first batch needs to leave a gap to accommodate the second batch of falling needles; The third batch needs to go to the end of the first batch, and then leave the gap of the fourth batch of needles; The fourth batch is connected to the end of the second batch ...; After that, and so on.
The fourth embroidery stitch: Yihe stitch
There is a symmetrical long and short needle. This needle uses long and short needles alternately, and the back needle is drawn out from the middle of the front needle, with uneven edge, which has the advantage of smooth color matching and can be used to embroider simulated images.
The fifth method of embroidery: grasping the needle
Also known as pushing the needle, it is a needle method that uses a short straight needle to follow the posture of the body, and the back needle follows the front needle, one needle at a time. It can be said that this kind of needling is the development of straight needling.
Embroidery stitch 6: plain stitch
Plain stitch: Embroidery with gold thread and silver thread instead of silk thread. The method: firstly, lay gold thread or silver thread on the embroidery ground, and then needle it with short silk thread. Every needle gauge is one and a half minutes, and it is circuitously filled according to the embroidery pattern, including two or three rows and several rows. Tie the thread on the flower like a cross pattern, just like the sole pattern.
The seventh method of embroidery stitch: scattered wrong stitches
It uses a variety of stitches to achieve a moderate depth of yin and yang, and strives to make the embroidery realistic.
Row stitch: it is a mixed stitch method with long and short stitches.
The eighth stitch of embroidery: weaving embroidery
It is an embroidery method similar to knitting. Include yarn poking, dot, velvet laying, net embroidery, embroidery, cross peach blossom, Mao Xiu, etc. These stitches are suitable for embroidery patterns, so they can also be called "pattern embroidery".
Embroidery stitch 9: Rao embroidery
This is a stitch in which needles and threads are intertwined and buckled into embroidery. Sowing, zipper, buckle embroidery, braided strands and feather needles all belong to this category. Seed-beating: This is one of the traditional stitches in Suzhou embroidery. Can be used to embroider the core, but also can independently embroider the pattern.
The tenth stitch of embroidery: needle application
Needle application is a method of adding needles to other needles. This kind of needling requires sparse but not dense, scattered but inconsistent, lively but not stagnant, and uneven.
Eleventh embroidery needle: auxiliary needle
This stitch is not an independent stitch, but an auxiliary stitch to enhance the similarity and vividness of embroidery scenes. The needling methods belonging to this category are: auxiliary needling, needling, scale needling and so on.
The twelfth stitch of embroidery: variant embroidery
In embroidery, there are some special embroidery methods that change the conventional embroidery with the help of other tools, materials and technological methods. These methods are variant embroidery, including dyeing embroidery, painting embroidery, borrowing color embroidery, high embroidery, silk picking and shearing. Dyeing embroidery: People, flowers and birds in Yuan embroidery often use ink to draw eyebrows instead of embroidery. Dyeing embroidery method began here and is still in use today.
Lingbao folk embroidery has been passed down from generation to generation, continuously developed and innovated, and gradually formed its own unique local style, which can be summarized as follows:
1, rich and diverse, meaning auspicious. Lingbao's folk embroidery is mostly practical. All daily necessities and clothes (mainly women and children) are decorated with embroidery. Such as cuffs, collars, skirts, aprons, curtains, quilts, curtains, children's hats, handkerchiefs, socks soles, etc. These items are decorated with auspicious patterns with different meanings, which show women's blessings to their loved ones and their yearning for a better life.
The patterns of Lingbao folk embroidery are usually symbols of happiness and good luck. Or through "homophones" with the same pronunciation. Express good wishes for life. It combines the appreciation habits of the masses and permeates the folk customs of western Henan. Such as "the precious son of the lotus nut", "the magpie climbs the plum tree", "Kirin sends the son", "Yuanyang plays in the water", "ice flute Hua Lian", "Phoenix plays peony", "Carp wears lotus flowers", "A hundred birds fly towards the phoenix", "Lion rolls hydrangea" and "Phoenix plays peony" and so on.
2. Spread love and show maternal love. Lingbao is also the hometown of China traditional opera. Various folk operas such as "Taoist feelings", "Henan Bangzi" and "shadow play" are deeply loved by local people. Therefore, the stories, costumes, colors and figures in folk opera and shadow play art are directly or indirectly transplanted into folk embroidery. The most prominent content is love stories, such as Picking up Jade Bracelets, By the Cabinet, butterfly lovers, etc., all of which are carefully embroidered by girls in purses, pillowcases, curtains, curtains, quilt covers and bed edges. Embroidered figures of men and women, with simple and pure images and bright colors, have entrusted the girls with their good feelings about love life and marriage happiness. Children's hats, bellies, cloth tigers and sachets embroidered by women are all devoted to maternal love.
3. Lingbao's folk embroidery is closely related to Lingbao's folk culture. The folk customs and habits of Lingbao folk embroidery provide opportunities and conditions for fully demonstrating women's diligence and wisdom (weddings, funerals and major festivals). In other words, folk embroidery endows local folk customs with a beautiful and mysterious color.
In Lingbao County, according to different festivals and fashions, women embroider embroidery and toys with different connotations and contents according to marriage, love and children's health. The girl's wedding is a big happy event, so we must "wear blue satin shoes and embroider red flowers". After passing the door, she will take care of it. " The bride and groom's new house must be decorated with prosperity and celebration. What is it like? "Yuanyang pillow, dragon and phoenix tent, red silk curtain embroidered with phoenix." The bride's wedding table is a beautiful work of art, as the folk song proves: Wang Xiaojiao is a bride, and she is busy with embroidery and marriage. After the second watch was embroidered in four corners, colorful clouds floated everywhere; After midnight, magpies will be sent to the plum blossom for good luck. After the four-watch embroidery, the husband and wife are happy; Wu Geng embroidered the dragon, played the phoenix, and flew with me as a mandarin duck. It is also very grand for a woman to have a "full moon". Grandma will send tiger boots, tiger hats, embroidered pockets and xianggong hats (all of which can't be separated from embroidery). The "Duanyang Festival" in May is an important festival of the Han nationality. The folk song says, "The sun is red at the end of May, so make a sachet to drive away poisonous insects." The eldest girls, kannika nimtragol and clever mother-in-law of every household in rural Lingbao began to embroider all kinds of fragrant cloth bags, such as the Eight Immortals, the Zodiac, the Monkey King, Banjiaowa, Taowa, Jixinwa and Shouxingwa.
Peaches, bergamot, butterflies and so on. The sachet is filled with aromatic herbs such as Atractylodes lancea and Angelica dahurica, which can not only drive away mosquitoes and flies, but also smell very fragrant. The girls carefully embroidered it and gave it to their lovers as a symbol of love. Mothers embroider carefully to protect the safety and health of their children.
4. The traditional skills of embroidery have been completely preserved and inherited. The representative stitches of Lingbao folk embroidery are "zipper embroidery", "braid embroidery" and "punching embroidery". In addition, the commonly used needling methods include traditional techniques such as "wrapping needle", "small needle", "flat needle", "plate needle" and "mending needle". Among them, the techniques of "drawing flowers" and "mending embroidery" are particularly eye-catching. Drawing flowers is to embroider vivid flowers with needles and single yarn, and Liao Liao counts the needles radially. Although it is an auxiliary technique, it plays an important role in embroidery. This stitch is usually used on cloth toys, such as stretching a small flower on the forehead and ribs of a majestic tiger, which makes the fierce liger look a little naive and cute. "Supplementary embroidery" is more widely used in embroidery. Its characteristic is that it can make embroidery produce relief effect. "Supplementary embroidery" is subdivided into the following categories: "Filling embroidery", similar to "overlapping embroidery". It uses cloth, silk or other materials to cut out the required pattern, fills cotton in the bottom material, and then embroiders the lace around the pattern with a needle to make the pattern convex and have a three-dimensional effect. This embroidery is more common in children's stomachs, pillowcases and children's hats; "Mending embroidery" is a complicated technique. It usually takes white as the background, then cuts out the required pattern with black and cyan cloth, cuts off the unnecessary part of the pattern with a knife, and draws a line in the blank place with colorful cloth. This patched embroidery method sets off colorful patterns in black patterns, which is strong in contrast, light and has the effect of taking root. This embroidery method is mostly used to embroider daily necessities such as insoles and socks soles. "Overlapping embroidery" is a complicated embroidery process. Its technique is to stick the cut original piece with cloth piece by piece, then stick it on the bottom material (the color of the bottom material is still mainly black and blue), and then embroider lines of various colors from the center of the pattern with a flat needle. When embroidery, a thin line is evenly left on the edge of the pattern, and the white outline is very chic against the colorful pattern base.