Clothing materials in Shang Dynasty were mainly leather, leather, silk and hemp. Due to the progress of textile technology, silk and linen fabrics have occupied an important position. People in Shang dynasty could weave very fine silk, and this material was very thick in color.
In the Western Zhou Dynasty, the hierarchical system was gradually established, and the Zhou Dynasty set up the official positions of "Si Fu" and "Inner Si Fu" to take charge of the royal costumes. According to the literature records and the analysis of unearthed cultural relics, China's crown service system was initially established in the Xia and Shang Dynasties, and was perfected in the Zhou Dynasty, the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period.
From the anthropomorphic cultural relics unearthed in the Zhou Dynasty, it can be seen that although the clothing decoration is complex and simple, it is clear from top to bottom, which has laid the basic shape of China clothing.
Clothing in the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period (770 ~ 22 BC1)
During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, the technology of weaving and embroidering has made great progress, making the clothing materials more and more refined and the varieties and names more and more. The spread of technology makes a variety of exquisite clothes stand out.
During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, it has become a trend that the upper layer is wide and the lower layer is narrow.
Deep clothes have the meaning of hiding the body. They are the casual clothes of domestic literati and the dresses of Shu Ren people. They are unisex and may have been formed at the turn of the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period. The ribbon-cutting of the deep clothes is unique, and the clothes and shirts are connected together. When making, it is cut up and down with a seam in the middle. They are the most widely used, and the grandeur is second only to that of the Korean clothing.
In 307 BC, King Wuling of Zhao issued the order of Khufu to promote "Khufu riding and shooting". Khufu refers to the costume of "Hu Ren" at that time, which is quite different from Dai Bo who took off his coat in the Central Plains. It is characterized by knee-length clothes, a fruit belt around the waist, hooks and boots, which is convenient for riding and shooting activities.
Clothing in Qin and Han Dynasties (2265438 BC+0 ~ 220 AD)
Compared with the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, the material in this period was richer, and the deep clothes also got new development.
In the third year of Jian Yuan in the Western Han Dynasty (138 BC) and the fourth year of Yuan Shou in the Western Han Dynasty (1 19 BC), Zhang Qian [qiān] was ordered to go to the western regions twice, which opened the land passage between China and western countries. Thousands of silks were exported continuously throughout the Wei, Jin, Sui and Tang Dynasties, which is known as the "Silk Road" in history. As a result, China clothing culture spread to the world.
There is no big difference in the clothing system between the Qin Dynasty and the Warring States Period, which keeps the basic form of China's deep service. Men's and women's clothing in the Western Han Dynasty still followed the form of deep clothes. Whether it is a single product or a cotton product, most of the tops and skirts are cut and stitched together, and the upper and lower parts are still not stitched or stitched; There are Hanfu and underwear in the coat, and their leaders are exposed together to become a rigid suit. Wear tight pants and keep the style of "praising clothes and big skirts". In the Qin Dynasty, clothes were black.
In the Han Dynasty, there was a clothing system. The history books list more than 20 kinds of dresses, court clothes and uniforms of emperors and courtiers. The grade difference in clothing is very obvious. The main manifestations are as follows: on the basis of following the old system, the crown service has developed into a basic symbol to distinguish grades; The system of matching bases was established as a symbol to distinguish official ranks.
In 202 BC, Liu Bang defeated Xiang Yu, established the Han Dynasty, and made Chang 'an its capital.
At the beginning of Han Dynasty, the rulers learned the lesson of Qin's death and adopted a policy of relaxing taxes on farmers. The general system has not changed much, and the crown service system has mostly inherited the Qin system. It was not until the second year of Yongping in the Eastern Han Dynasty that there were formal and complete regulations.
At the beginning of Han Dynasty, due to the policy of recuperation adopted by the rulers, the economy was restored and developed, and a peaceful and prosperous era of "the rule of culture and scenery" appeared. Agriculture and handicrafts have been greatly improved. The most common folk handicraft industry at that time was the textile industry. During this period, the brilliant output of silk was enormous. Textile processing in the Han Dynasty also reached a high level.
The main costumes of the Han Dynasty are robes, waist-binding, waist-binding and skirts. In the Han dynasty, because the textile and embroidery industries were very developed, the rich could wear beautiful clothes of silk and satin. Ordinary people wear short pants, and the poor wear short brown [short clothes made of coarse cloth]. Women in the Han dynasty wore two-piece dresses and robes, and there were many styles of skirts, the most famous of which was the fairy skirt.
According to legend, Zhao liked wearing skirts very much after becoming the queen of the Han Dynasty. Once, she wore a colorful purple dress and went swimming in a pool with Emperor Han Chengdi. Swallows danced and skirts fluttered in the sound of drums. Just then, the wind blew, and she was blown like a light swallow. Emperor Cheng ordered his attendants to hold her, only to catch her skirt in a panic. The queen was saved, but there were many wrinkles on her skirt. But strangely, the pleated skirt looks better than the one without pleats before. Since then, ladies-in-waiting have followed suit, which is the "fairy dress" at that time. 〕
The unprecedented material wealth created by the Han Dynasty made the Han people have optimistic confidence in human productivity. In the History of China's Aesthetic Thoughts, the author said, "Han people inherited the basic ideas of Taoist aesthetics, but also abandoned their negative ideas about being born, absorbed some reasonable views of Confucianism, paid attention to the unity of natural laws and human purposes, and firmly believed that there were infinitely rich and diverse beauties in the vast external world, and people should actively discover, possess and enjoy them."
Costumes in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties (220 ~ 589)
During the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, grade costumes changed and national costumes merged. Wei Chu and Cao Wen have established the system of nine-rank official posts. "Purple, red and green are the three colors that distinguish nine-rank official posts". Since then, this system has been used in successive dynasties until the Yuan and Ming Dynasties.
During the Southern and Northern Dynasties, northern minorities entered the Central Plains, people lived in different places, and political, economic and cultural customs infiltrated each other, forming a situation of great integration, which led to the development of costumes. The folds of northern national shorts have gradually become the mainstream, and both men and women can wear them, regardless of grade. Women's clothing is "frugal and rich".
From the end of the Eastern Jin Dynasty to the period of Qi and Liang Dynasties, dresses were skirts, which originated in the Han Dynasty. In the Jin dynasty, it had the characteristics of short coat and wide skirt. Influenced by the etiquette of the Han Dynasty, ethnic minorities wore Hanfu.
In the 18th year of Taihe (494), after Xianbei Northern Wei moved its capital to Luoyang, Emperor Xiaowen of Wei promoted the policy of sinicization, changed Tuoba as his surname, and led hundreds of officials to wear Han and Wei costumes. It turns out that Xianbei people are wearing small sleeve clothes with collars. This reform of the old customs, called "filial piety reform", has enabled the old system of crown clothing to continue since the Qin and Han Dynasties and promoted the development of China's clothing culture.
The costumes of Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties still inherited the old system of Qin and Han Dynasties. When the Northern and Southern Dynasties just established political power, all ethnic minorities still dressed according to their own customs. Later, influenced by the Han culture, they began to wear Han costumes.
The costumes of the people in the Central Plains, especially casual clothes and uniforms, have absorbed the characteristics of many northern nationalities on the original basis, and the form of clothes is suitable for the body. In the Six Dynasties, men wore robes and low skirts, while women wore robes and double skirts, which was very beautiful. For the costumes of this period, please refer to scrolls such as Ode to Luoshen and Biography of Lienv.
The costumes of the Northern Dynasties are characterized by fitted trousers, short robes and various boots. The dress is narrow and short, and the skirt and waist are slightly upturned. Women's clothes are mostly decorated with hairpin flowers, pearls and various corollas, which led to the customization of rockhopper in Song Dynasty.
Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties were a period of great changes in the history of ancient Chinese costumes. At this time, Hu fu became the fashion at that time because a large number of Hu people moved to the Central Plains. Tightness, round neck and split are the characteristics of Khufu.
Sui and Tang dynasty clothes (58 1 ~ 907)
During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, China was unified by division, stable by war and prosperous in economy and culture. The development of clothing, whether it is material or style, presents an unprecedented brilliant scene.
The most popular women's dress in Sui and Tang Dynasties is skirt, which is the main dress style of women in Tang Dynasty. During the Sui Dynasty and the early Tang Dynasty, women used small sleeve as shorts and wore tight-fitting long skirts with high waists, usually above the waist, and some even tied ribbons under their armpits, giving people a pretty and slender feeling. The skirts in the middle Tang Dynasty are wider than those in the early Tang Dynasty, and the others have not changed much. Women in Sui and Tang Dynasties were well dressed. The "half-arm" handed down from the court has double-breasted pullovers, lapels or collarless styles. The sleeves are elbow-length and waist-length, and a small belt is tied as a chest. Because the neckline is very wide, the upper chest is exposed when wearing it. The half arm lasted for a long time, and then the man wore it. At that time, a long scarf was also popular, which was made of tulle and had flowers painted with silver flowers or gold and silver powder. One end is fixed on the chest strap of the half arm, then put on the shoulder and wrapped around the arm, so it is called silk.
The masculinization of women's clothing was one of the manifestations of social openness in the Tang Dynasty, and it was a fashion for women to wear men's clothing at that time. Tang people are good at integrating northwest minorities with foreign cultures such as Tianzhu and Persia. During the Tang Dynasty from Zhenguan to Kaiyuan, new Hu clothes were very popular.