Abstract: Late Qing Dynasty and Early Republic of China
20
In the 1930s and 1940s, the costumes taken with the drama of the Republic of China as the background were as follows
The research object is "historical truth", that is, the design style of drama costumes in the Republic of China.
The concrete expression of "artistic truth"
Sort out and summarize by induction,
According to the specific artistic expression, the costume design of the drama of the Republic of China is summarized.
"limited"
"reality"
Three important aspects of "hypothesis", and put forward the design theory based on "drama"
Reading. As a branch of TV series, the drama of the Republic of China
.
This paper hopes that through the study of drama costume design in the Republic of China, it can be used for reference.
See "big" for "small"
, by
"Point" and "Face"
, for the healthy development of China TV clothing design.
To a certain extent.
Key words: drama of the Republic of China; Fashion design; Based on "drama"
First, the costume design style of drama in the Republic of China
In the creation of film and television dramas,
Clothing design style refers to different clothes, in order to shape the appearance of the role.
Style,
Including the use of artistic means and expressive skills.
Compared with costume dramas,
Drama in the Republic of China is specific.
The time range refers to the period from the late Qing Dynasty to the early Republic of China.
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The historical period of 1930s and 1940s. Because there is still time.
Definition,
Therefore, the drama of the Republic of China and the costume martial arts drama that pursues fantasy colors,
Compared with dramas such as costume legends,
pray for blessings
Clothing basically reflects the social dress style at that time,
The performance style is more realistic.
Therefore, according to historical TV series,
The orientation of history and artistic style,
And the realistic style of costume design in the drama of the Republic of China,
The author also comes from history.
From the original point of view, the costume design style of drama in the Republic of China is further divided into historical truth and artistic truth.
1.
Historical truth
Historical truthfulness refers to fashion design from the perspective of respecting history.
Based on historical facts,
Reflect space objectively
And the image of life in time,
Its form of expression is faithful to a certain era scene in daily life,
So this
Class clothing has the characteristics of "museum consciousness". Because of the objective reflection of historical essence, it decides to serve.
Clothing has the specificity of following historical facts, so clothing will target the times, seasons, places, atmosphere and people.
Change and realize the realistic design,
From modeling to decorative patterns,
From material application to technology
Features,
Strive for accuracy in all aspects, from colors to clothing accessories,
Trying to recreate the real image in front of the screen,
Let the audience truly feel the face of real life.
The realistic drama of major historical events in the Republic of China usually reflects the historical and true clothing style.
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Appear, such as "towards * * * and"
to show one's sword
At that time, the flowers bloomed
Historical sky, etc. , the seriousness of the play.
It determines the authenticity of clothing, so the clothing in these dramas of the Republic of China is not only from the form, fabric, style and workmanship.
Art and even accessories, from large to structure, from small to micro-local or fine-needle-dense lines, have been strictly researched.
Objectively reappeared the social customs and living environment at that time,
And given by the details of different typed styles.
The role of different vitality.
2.
Artistic truth
Artistic truth is relative to historical truth,
Usually, the artistic expression of the essence and truth of history is called
Artistic truth ②.
Artistic truth is mainly based on the non-objective realistic orientation of the script.
Script-based designer
Requirements, with emphasis, abandonment, concentration, simplification, variation and other artistic means, through artistic creation, with virtual
The form of illusion reveals the essence and true meaning of real life.
On the basis of the original appearance of history, creation and history are integrated.
Set different images.
So,
The essence of art lies in the inherent law and immanence of artistic image and social life.
The artistic coincidence of logic.
Artistic reality mainly appears in plays adapted from historical and literary works, which are used by designers.
Add,
The means of subtraction,
Break through the symbol of life and create personalized clothing.
Strengthen characterization.
such as
oranges and tangerines
The child is red.
at dead of night
Like fog, like rain, like wind
Midnight Song and so on.
To sum up, historical truth is a concrete representation of history, and artistic truth is an abstract expression of history.
In the current drama market of the Republic of China,
According to Zhang Ailing,
Zhang Henshui,
Drama of the Republic of China adapted from literary masterpieces such as Ba Jin.
Drama is particularly popular with consumers.
Its screen broadcast rate far exceeds that of dramas reflecting major historical events in the Republic of China.
Purpose,
Therefore, artistic truth has become the most common fashion design style in the drama of the Republic of China.
Of course, no matter in the use of history
True style or true artistic style,
Can't be divorced from a principle:
Starting with the script,
Fashion style
The performance must be based on the style orientation of the script.
On this basis, talk about change and promote art.
In addition,
Dress
"
Style should be coordinated with space, lighting and makeup in creation, from the composition of clothing image
Finally, the means, materials and techniques are in harmony with the script style and director style, so that the whole is in the wind.
A whole on a grid.
The Relationship among Historical Truth, Artistic Truth and Historical Truth
Second, the performance of drama costume design in the Republic of China.
As we all know, the characters presented in front of the screen are usually composed of body, movement, sound, expression and clothing.
Clothing, makeup and other parts. As a part of image-building, the existence of clothing is limited by time and space.
System,
According to the factors considered in advance, it is carried out in an intuitive and visual way to express the external image of the characters in the script.
Creation,
It is a complicated design process from image to ready-made clothes, and finally presented in front of the screen.
Drama of the Republic of China
As a part of role decoration, clothing is a comprehensive embodiment of designer's concept and clothing material carrier.
Therefore, it also has
Have distinct personality characteristics.
1.
limit
Restrict,
That is, restrictions.
As a decorative symbol of an image,
The ultimate goal of shaping image determines people.
The costume design of China opera will be restricted by scripts and people.
The limitation of the script refers to the style of the script,
As mentioned above.
Records of major historical events mentioned,
The authenticity of the script determines that clothing must match the atmosphere and form described in the script.
Matching, based on drama, cannot go against history, so "restriction" can also be regarded as "subordination" here.
Let's explain. The limitation of people refers to the genre of directors, the form of performances, the conditions of actors and so on. These factors are more or less there.
Will affect the designer's thinking,
In particular, clothing should be used in the assumed time and space according to the director's requirements.
Principles of plastic arts.
Besides,
With movies,
Like drama,
The costume design of the drama of the Republic of China was also influenced by the lighting.
In terms of makeup,
The success of fashion design can't depend on the designer's talent alone.
Same as multi-department * * *
The result of cooperation.
Just like Edith, a famous Hollywood movie costume designer.
Hyde (3) said:
"The film industry.
Fashion designers and commodity fashion designers have nothing in common. Commodity designers collect a lot of things every year.
Lucy: Price fluctuations, clothing materials and so on. They want to design clothes with someone's brand. But in the movie,
Industry, our fashion design cannot control what we do.
"④
2.
reality
Whether the theme of any TV series is to describe the future or show the past,
The costumes in the play can all come from
Find the shadow in real life, that is, people often say that "historical textual research conforms to the times"
. For example, the performance of Qing Palace.
Whether it is a joke or a serious drama, the costumes of the court Fengyun drama will be in the basic elements such as court clothes, flower feathers and mandarin jackets.
Change your face
The costume creation of drama in the Republic of China was restricted by the costumes in the north and south areas during the Republic of China.
Republic of China (1912-1949)
The clothing system in this period can be roughly divided into "Beijing School" and "Shanghai School"
, especially at the end of the Republic of China, north-south differentiation.
More obvious. Generally speaking, due to political influence,
"Beijing School" clothing is more conservative, such as a good family, with
The official style is reserved and concise;
"Shanghai style" clothing is influenced by foreign cultures and varies widely, such as modern women.
Lang, there are many styles. So the styles and decorations of the two kinds of costumes are completely different, so during the Republic of China.
When designing clothes,
We must know the exact location of the story,
Location,
Once the characters in the play are changed,
The emphasis will also change.
From the reality of drama in the Republic of China,
If life clothes are daily necessities.
For the imprint, then the TV costume is the imprint of the imprint.
3.
suppose
"If something important in social life is expressed,
Is the inherent requirement of artistic truth,
therefore
Assumption in artistic situation is the external feature of artistic truth. As can be seen from this passage,
"suppose
Sex is actually a concrete expression of artistic truth. The so-called "hypothesis"
Refers to the "fantasy" of art.
, is a kind of
Traditional social attributes,
That is, an artistic expression recognized by human aesthetic psychology.
In other words, television
The assumption of theatrical costumes is that under the age condition,
Virtual artistic reality for role-building.
Zaiying
In front of the screen, the factors such as fit, durability and convenience required by conventional clothing have lost their dominant position.
The assumed treatment and artistic expression of clothing required by personality and identity,
It is easier for the audience to associate.
The real artistic effect in characters' lives. For example, in Ruan, Ruan's image is higher than that of Ruan.
Reality,
On the premise of respecting history,
The whole character modeling has been improved artistically,
In terms of clothing
Add some artistic language,
For example, the designer's treatment of sleeve folds in the play makes Ruan's image more wavy.
Men, make the shape more in line with the image of the movie goddess in people's hearts.
All in all,
Whether it is historical realism or artistic treatment,
Whether it's a museum-style specimen or a fantasy
Think about this assumption,
As the first symbol of external image,
Its rich forms of expression seem to be more tolerant than sound.
Easy to impress the audience. Indeed, clothing is very important in film and television dramas. It is like a condiment, lacking its catalytic function.
Function,
This dish will become tasteless.
But the service of clothing shaping role tells people that it is always a creation.
The "executor" of meaning
, not "commander"
. Therefore, we should correctly understand the role of clothing in film and television dramas.
The role of,
And its location,
We can neither exaggerate blindly nor sell ourselves short.
Whether it is the drama of the Republic of China
Or the costume design of other kinds of dramas, according to the plot of the script, must be artistic.
The second creation and basic artistic orientation of clothing should start from "drama"