Song Dynasty is a highly developed dynasty in economy, science and technology and culture. Agriculture, shipbuilding, textile and paper industry have reached new heights, and gunpowder, compass and printing technology have been invented. Generally speaking, the costumes in Song Dynasty can be divided into official clothes and casual clothes. Official clothes are divided into imperial clothes and public clothes. Women's clothing in the Song Dynasty-The clothing worn by ordinary women in the Song Dynasty includes coats, fur coats, shirts, backpacks, half-arms, skirts, pants and other clothing styles. In Song Dynasty, women mainly wore skirts, but they also had pants. The costumes of women in Song Dynasty are similar to those of women in Han Dynasty. They are all slender, with narrow sleeves and crossed collars, wearing elegant long skirts in various colors. Yan and coat are basically similar clothes, the form is relatively short, and the lower body is matched with a skirt. Red and purple are the main colors, followed by yellow.
The style of government skirts in Song Dynasty is basically the same as that in Tang Dynasty. The decoration on the car body is not complicated. In addition to silk, only a jade ring ornament is added to the ribbon worn in the middle of the waist. Its main function is to suppress the skirt so that it is not affected by the wind when walking or moving. The "Yuhuan Ribbon" mentioned in the history books is this kind of decoration.
A coat called Xunzi was popular in Song Dynasty. In Song Dynasty, Xunzi had long sleeves, a long body and a crotch under his arm, that is, the clothes were not sewn back and forth, but there were belts under his arm and back suffix. The double belt under the armpit could have been used to tie the front and back skirts, but the raccoon in the Song Dynasty didn't tie it, but hung it for decoration, which means imitating the form of the ancient single (underwear) cross-belt, which means "it's good to stay old." When you wear a robe, you tie it around your waist with silk.
There are three kinds of lapels in Song Dynasty: straight lapels and double lapels, oblique lapels and disc lapels, among which straight lapels are the most. Oblique collar and disc collar are only worn by men under public service, while women wear straight collar and double-breasted style. Housewives with status wear big sleeves. Maids-in-waiting and concubines wear clothes with crotch under their arms, which is more convenient to walk. Women's dresses in Song Dynasty were short at first, and then lengthened, and developed into a standard format with sleeves larger than shirts and skirts.
Hanfu in Ming Dynasty (1368- 1644)
Ming Dynasty costumes are dignified and gorgeous, which is a model of ancient Chinese costume art. Today, the styles and patterns of China opera costumes are mostly taken from Ming Dynasty costumes. By the Ming Dynasty, costumes were more luxurious, weaving and embroidery techniques reached their peak, and cultural connotations were richer. The dress form of upper and lower skirts in Ming Dynasty is the same as that in Tang and Song Dynasties, except that a short waist skirt is often added among young women to facilitate activities, and some maids and maids also like this dress. The coat is a stand-up collar and a long-sleeved coat. The skirt was light in color at first, although it had patterns, but it was not obvious.
By the early years of Chongzhen, skirts were mostly plain white, and even if there were embroidery patterns, only a lace was decorated one or two inches below the skirt as a presser foot. At the beginning of the skirt, there were six pieces, that is, the so-called "skirt dragging six pieces of Xiangjiang River water"; After using it for eight times, there are many fine wrinkles at the waist, and the lines are like water lines. By the end of the Ming dynasty, the decoration of skirts became more and more exquisite, and the number of skirts increased to ten. The pleats at the waist are getting denser and denser, and each pleat has a color. The breeze is blowing, and the color is like a moonlight skirt, so it is called a "moonlight skirt". A "palace belt" made of ribbon is often hung on the belt. Usually make a few circles in the middle, and then it falls to the ground. Some people string a piece of Yu Pei in the middle, so that the skirt can be held down and the appearance will not be affected, which is similar to the Yuhuan ribbon in the Song Dynasty.
Double-breasted clothes, especially women's clothes, were popular in Ming Dynasty. Hanfu in Ming dynasty is the most beautiful and formal regulation that can be seen in film and television dramas. There is nothing better than a dream of red mansions filmed in the 1980s. The costume of this play is directed and manipulated by Mr. Shen Congwen, who has a deep understanding of it and can be called a masterpiece.